Nessecary Brake Fluid Flush?

There is a preferred flushing / bleeding sequence and it is:: RF>LR>LF>RR. Rational is that there is less chance of contaminated fluid being pushed into another brake line.

Hi,

Interesting info--thanks for finding it! I imagine those tests at least keep the owner in a "safe" level of performance.

However, as Jim and others noted, there can be a big buildup of "crud" in the cylinder/piston assy's, and the test doesn't address that. Having pulled down some pretty nasty, rusted and/or frozen pieces in the past, I always feel better after I "waste" a few bucks and renew my brake fluid every coupla years...

I've experienced a failure such as Ed describes, and it's not a good feeling. Fortunately, it wasn't, in his words, THE END. But it coulda been. Brake fluid, like clean oil, is cheap insurance.

Rick

OMG, stop!! You'll be giving them ideas.

:-P

I save money by rotating my air at home.

I drain each tire into a portable air tank and reinstall the air in a different tire.

Try it, it'll keep that new car feeling!

I get better mileage by filling them with helium. Makes the car lighter.

;^)

Carl

Appreciate the wealth of info!

Google never came to mind.

Will ID which test they use at the next oil change but I believe I recall them mentioning a strip test, as mentioned in on that page.

Since I live in Arizona we probably have less moisture control problems than mid-west owners. This may be why the shop has gone to testing.

BoB

Hah, you now can pay at many filling stations to fill your tires with pure nitrogen. It supposedly reduces leakage as there is no oxygen in the tire to damage the rubber and thus the seals do not go bad. Also there may be something to do with the density.

So, it's not such a way out idea.

Al

I can sell you a special, custom device to do it right!

Hi,

I've been rotating my air for years, but I guess I wasn't doing it right. I'd drain one tire, then use a hose setup to move the air from one tire to another, finishing by filling the now empty spare with fresh air (only works w/ full sized spares, not the donuts.) Kinda like changing an oil filter w/o doing a complete oil change, so you're only adding a bit of fresh oil to top up.

Hope I wasn't wasting air my way...

Rick

an old fleet manager once explained to me that european and japanese manufacturers rely on conditioners in the brake fluid to keep the rubber parts of the brake system flexible. so you have a choice, either replace the brake fluid according to the maintenance schedule, or replace all the rubber parts early - his policy was to flush the brake fluid.

This has been discussed 1000s of times. Read your manual and do as the manufacture recommends or gamble on the cost of not doing it.