New Outback Suggestions?

On a 2010 Outback, the only thing to watch out for is accidently hitting the

4-way flasher button, or less obvious, one of the ventilation selection buttons when putting the shift into "Park". I don't know if I can train my hand to stop hitting those buttons, but I now make it a habit to make sure the flashers aren't on when I remove the key.

One other consideration are the shift paddles on the steering wheel. They work well, but if you use the lower gears for engine braking, it is now a

2-step process. First moving the automatic shift lever from "D" to "M", then choosing the gear with the paddles. While I find it requires a little more thought than with older transmissions, the setup is pretty cool.

-Bill Radio

I dunno about the model specifically, but he needs to understand that learning to take care of his tires NOW could save him heartache in the future. Rotate them, keep them inflated properly and never mix a different model, size or new/worn tire in with the others. Read and re- read the manual on use of the spare(is it a tiny donut?) Also, use the Subaru guide for maintenance and don't let the dealer 'accelerate' fluid changes, etc. Some dealers will do that.

I think I learned a lesson on the tire rotation. Rotate them faithfully on schedule or not at all. I rotated mine well after the scheduled time. Ruined them in short order.

On Fri, 21 May 2010, 1 Lucky Texan wrote: ...

I'm afraid that my dealer do that. I have an Impreza 2006 w/o turbo, it has now 10,000+ Kms. only and in the every year review they change the oil, i.e. What could happen to my car?

The concern is really with protecting the center differential (the heart of the AWD system) from drivetrain stress. As with any high/ special performance vehicle, additional attention to certain aspects of it are necessary. For most folks, the AWD system works transparently in the background. BUT, it can be compromised by running different sized tires (mixed sizes, new with old, a low tire) for some time on dry pavement. On low traction surfaces, there is no stress built up on the drivetrain components, but if the AWD system senses a speed difference at the wheels, it locks up and you can get 'torque bind'.

The schedule for maintenance lists BOTH time and usage (distnace in kliks or miles). So, for a car which makes only short trips a few times a week, that is actually considered a form of 'extreme duty' and moisture can collect in the various fluids. If that moisture has no opportunity to be boiled away from operation at highway speeds/temps, then the fluid should be changed on a schedule so any water is drained out. My cars get less than average use, yet I always change the oil twice a year and the other fluids based on the 'time' portion of the manufacturers maintenance shedule.