None of these are Subies....

I used to believe my foot was more educated than the damned ABS was, especially after hitting the trip point on the '95 Chev van I drive at work. (This was back in the era when GM had to put a videotape in the jockeybox explaining ABS. I could either featherfoot the pedal or pump it as conditions dictated.. lots of pre-ABS ice experience.

Either I'm losing my touch or ABS has gotten much better. It kicked in on my '00 OBWL on ice a couple of weeks ago and (other than the "ABS Surprise") actually allowed some steering control. I later found an empty parking lot and "let it all hang out" with and without ABS.. I was impressed!

Just remember to test it daily so that it does not go bad from disuse. What's L in OBWL?

LL Bean Edition?

"Limited". They didn't have the LL Bean back then. Basically an OB with leather seats and twin moonroofs. It also has a limited slip rear.. that's worth it.

Are you serious or just kidding?

ABS isn't really meant for anything but emergency stopping. "Disuse" doesn't really matter as ABS pumps always cycle at startup and can cycle when driving.

Carl

as a wise man once pointed out, cars have always had 4-wheel BRAKES - the addition of 4-wheel DRIVE doesn't make them stop any better.

I thought studs were illegal in California because they chew up pavement, but I found the following when researching chain control requirements (apologies for the bad info):

"Protuberances on Tires: Exceptions

27454. No tire on any vehicle upon any highway shall have on its periphery any block, stud, flange, cleat, ridge, bead, or any other protuberance of metal or wood that projects beyond the tread of the traction surface of the tire.

This section does not apply to any of the following:

(e) Pneumatic tires containing metal-type studs of tungsten carbide or other suitable material that are so inserted or constructed that under no conditions will the number of studs or the percentage of metal in contact with the roadway exceed 3 percent of the total tire area in contact with the roadway, between November 1 and April 30 of each year. The commissioner, after consultation with the Department of Transportation, may extend the period during which studded pneumatic tires may be used in any area of the state for the protection of the public because of adverse weather conditions."

** ** **

However - studded tires don't count as "traction control devices". Anyone with studded snow tires would still need to carry chains in chain control areas and maybe even install them.

"If I have studded snow tires, do I need to carry chains?

Yes. Studded snow tires are not considered tire traction devices and may not be used in lieu of chains."

I tried it again last night. I could get the stock #

1034 Cobra cable chain to 6 bushings on each side on some nearly brand new 205/55R16 tires. I tried pulling in one more bushing into the outside keyhole/endhook but couldn't get it any tighter. I didn't try driving it, which the instructions suggest may be needed to tighten any further. At that point, it still felt loose and I don't think I would have been comfortable driving with them on.

I see they also sell a "spider adjuster" that seems to be

6 rubber arms (joined at the center) with hooks to take up the slack. The catalog picture even shows the chain with one of these adjusters installed. I don't know where to find them, but maybe I can located them up in the Sierras when I go on vacation. While I suppose they aren't needed if you can get the side cables tight, it would really help for someone like me who doesn't particularly like putting on chains. It also seems to get the chains on tight w/o making them impossible to take off later.

I looked up a few more assorted installation instructions for ladder type chains. Each manufacturer seems to have a slightly different take, along with slightly different setups. However - one thing that did make sense was an instruction to turn the tires (with the steering wheel) to make it easier to reach the inside connector.

Of course I am driving a Subaru, and I've been waved past every California chain checkpoint I've gone through so far. I have the chains because I'm required to carry at least a pair going through chain control areas.

BTW - I know my owner's manual don't recommend it, but has anyone tried out four chains in a Subaru? I keep on hearing that chains on the front are a recipe for spinning out if all four wheels are driven.

Are you sure. I remember some bicycles from my childhood only had rear coaster brakes. I'm sure there might have been some early cars that only had two wheel braking. Did Gottlieb Daimler's first three wheeler even have brakes?

BTW - Any experienced bicyclist can stop with the front brakes alone. As with cars, the front brakes are far more effective, as the weight transfers to the front tire. It just takes some technique, including leaning the weight backwards, and a bit of balance.

I looked some of the different offerings. Several chain manufacturers sell and recommend using chain tighteners. The company that makes my chains even shows them being used.

I tried getting them on tight without adjusters, and really couldn't. However - when I just pulled down on the side cable it seemed to take up the slack. I asked in another forum, and bungee cords were suggested instead of the purpose-built chain adjusters.

Some of the newer cables don't even have any adjustment to them. They have a huge slack if just attached via the metal connectors. They have to be tightened with rubber chain adjusters that are included. One supposed benefit is that they have to be driven and periodically checked, because the tighteners always ensure that they're tight.