Oil Changes; Synthetic oils

We bought a new OBW last year, the L.L.Bean edition. It's my first new car in...wait for it...37 years! Everything in between has been purchased used (don't you just detest "pre-owned"?).

I know that oils have improved greatly and engines have changed a lot over the years, so thought I'd ask about oil-change intervals for this vehicle.

We rarely find ourselves in stop and go traffic; we are usually moving along at 30 to 70 mph with the stop for the occasional stop light/sign. With that sort of driving, I felt that an oil/filter change every

4,000 miles would be more than adequate. Do list readers agree or disagree???

Eventually, we will change to sythetic oil and that leads to me second two questions:

What's the optimal mileage for the switchover. Wait until 10k, 20k, longer?

And is pure synthetic best or is the petroleum/synthetic mix better. I have heard a very persuasive argument made for the mix because it absolutely will not foam whereas the pure synthetic can indeed foam. And, of course, foam indicates the presence of air and where there is air, there is no oil and no lubrication.

Thanks, Gunny

Reply to
Gunny
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Hi, Gunny

Well, I've only seen one way to stir things up faster than ask "what kind of oil and how often to change it?" in an automotive forum, and that was when I was kid in San Diego and watched a coupla drunken sailors stumble into a bar full of Marines and holler out, "You guyshhh are all a bunch of wimpshhhhh!" It got exciting FAST! And that's about what you'll see in your answers here (or other auto forums!)

We all have our opinions, but that's all they are. I've challenged people over the years to "show me your numbers" about why this or that is better, and nobody can...

So I'll give you MY opinion, based on the last million miles I've driven: pick your favorite brand of dino oil in the right weight and service grade (API, ILSAC), change it and your filter every 3000 miles (or use your book's recommendation for "severe" service), and report back in a quarter of a million miles if there's any oil-related problem!

People are going to tell you that's a waste of money. They're going to tell you this filter is better and that one's garbage, they're going to make it seem like your engine will probably just fall off its mounts if you don't use their brand of oil. It's almost all bunk! Clean oil's about the cheapest insurance you can buy for your car, and as long as your choice meets the mfrs recommendation, you're good!

Synthetics? Yeah, they seem to be "better" than dino oils. But how much better and at what cost? I've tried several of them, and I keep pretty detailed records of such stuff. Never have they proven to be cost effective for me. I live near Palm Springs, CA, and it's just a bit warm this time of year (111 deg F yesterday, should finish warmer today.) I'm currently running a "test" w/ Super-Tech synthetic (from Wally World--the cheapest one on the market. In the past I've "tested" Amsoil before there were really any others on the open market, Mobil 1, and Castrol Syntec) in two vehicles to see if anything's changed as far as cost effectiveness. So far, no joy. Where synthetics shine in my book is their ability to clean, and keep things clean, particularly if there's much varnish in an engine. Your "new" LLBean shouldn't have that problem!

"True" synthetics vs "that's not a true" synthetic? Synthetic blends? You pays your money and you makes your choices. There's plenty of argument about what IS or IS NOT synthetic. Ever get in those Ford vs Chevy arguments at lunch in high school? Same concept. All the big oil companies have been butting heads, mostly in court, about the definition of "synthetic" and basically, for US purposes, it's marketing that wins out. You REALLY don't know any more about what you're getting than what it says on the jug.

When to do the switchover to a synthetic? Whenever you feel like it. Several cars today come from the factory w/ Mobil 1 from the get go. Mobil says the "run it x number of miles to break in" is an urban myth. Others swear you should put 3-6k miles on dino oil first. You should have that kind of mileage already? If so, the question's moot.

The only "bad" thing about a switchover is if you have a hi-mileage car that's not leaking cuz the seals are being "helped" by a build up of goo over the years: it's likely a synthetic will clean things out well enough a "hidden" leak may surface. But today's synthetics by and of themselves don't CAUSE leaks.

Extended drain intervals w/ synthetics? You'll see all kinds of claims. If your car's under warranty, they're all bunk, cuz you've gotta follow the warranty instructions or void it. I'm sure it's quite likely you CAN run fairly long OCIs (oil change intervals) w/ the kind of driving you've proposed, but it's usually suggested you do oil analysis to know for sure. So you can change your oil at 3000 miles w/ dino oil for $20, and know for the next 3000 you're good. Or you can spend $20-$30 at 3000 for an oil analysis on your far more expensive synthetic oil that might say "change right this minute" or "come back in 3000 miles and we'll do this again." See any economy in that? You're not saving any money, just making different choices on how to spend about the same amount!

So, those are MY opinions, and we'll see if I've done my part to get things flying... but in the long run, do what makes YOU comfortable at the spending level you find acceptable, and you should be just fine REGARDLESS of what you choose!

Rick

Reply to
Rick Courtright

Reply to
Tcassette

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If you use dino juice you can easily change at 5.000 mile intervals. Subies are notoriously easy on oil. Use a decent brand with a good additive package.

If you want to switch to synth, do it after 1,000 miles. It comes as factory fill on some cars now, so don't worry about racking up the miles. For example, Mobil1 states their products can be used from the get-go.

If you change your own oil, use whatever is decent and on sale.

5.000 miles is not a long stretch for today's oils, but I wouldn't push it much further on dino. Synth is a different story, however.

If you really want the scoop, check out

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Reply to
Bob H

I've had my 95 Legacy for a few years now, and have combined personal experience with suggestions from a mechanic.

Frequency-- I eyeball it. Synth seems to generally last a little longer, but once they honey color is going, I change my oil Seems to be around 5000 miles or so. 3000 went out the window some time ago. The Cartalk guys follow this line of thinking as well.

Type- A mechanic once told me that Subarus that run with synthetic have far fewer problems with seals than those that run with regular dino oil, primarily because the dino oil, if not changed regularly , can actually damage the seals. I don't know if it's true or not. My last oil changed found me using Quaker State with slick 50. It felt like my car ran a lot smoother immediately.

Now to find the brake thread.. since I have to change mine out..

Bob H wrote:

Reply to
IndianaAdam

Generally speaking, and somewhat from a European perspective, any car with a small displacement (high rpm) engine for best protection should be given synthetic oils. By small displacement, loosely speaking, I mean 2.0L or less. Anything bigger than 2.0L should do very fine with regular dino oils, unless driven in extreme conditions, that is very high, or low, temperatures, towing, long distance high-speed driving, etc.

Observe proper oil viscosities per your car manual, and use only good oil filters (Subaru/Purolator). The 4000 miles oil change interval sounds OK, given your driving style/conditions.

It seems to me that your somewhat leisurely style of driving combined with Subarus fairly large and powerful 2.5L engine, would not need any synthetic oils. You may consider using them discretionally, for example only in summer when it is very hot, or only in winter if you live in some extremely cold locality.

I drive a 2000 Subie Impreza 2.2L and have used synthetics exclusevily since about 250 miles. I drive in a mountainous terrain and the car sees a lot of high revving so synthetic oil gives a bit more protection.

I would like to suggest that you change your differential fluids to synthetics - that is front and rear differential. You may do this at 5,000 miles, or later. There have been numerous reports that these oils are not only good for the differentials but also pay for themselves (or the added cost) in fuel savings.

I switched my Impreza to synhtetic differential lube and noticed a slight improvement in fuel economy, but I wasn't meticulous at keeping records to give any numbers. It just makes sense especially in an AWD drive car, to try reduce any friction in the drivetrain as much as possible- the synthetics are more slippery for sure.

M.J.

Reply to
M.J.

Our shop services hundreds of cars and light trucks. The oil and filter interval is 6 months or 6000 miles. Many of our vehicles go well past 200,000 miles on the original engine and transmission. Tranny's are serviced every 30,000 miles. With rare exception there is no reason any vehicle needs the oil and filter changed any more often than that. On my personal vehicles I use Mobile 1 full synthetic and do my oil and filter at 12 months or 12,000 miles.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

Same schedule as my 86 GL. Still purring like a kitten 20 years and 150k later with no engine problems. (one pencil eraser size drip about every 4-5 days) but who wants to fix something that minor.

Reply to
pheasant

I'd say forget about the synthetics, stick with regular old dino oil.

Yousuf Khan

Reply to
Yousuf Khan

'85 Saab 900 Turbo, 314K miles, dino juice every 3000 miles since I got the car in 1995 (with 175K on it), no leaks, no burning. Switched to synthetic blend (whatever's on sale) 6000K ago, still no leaks or burning.

my .02 worth.

Bob

Reply to
psyktek

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