Oil Drain Plug Torque

I don't believe you need to torque it. Just use a new crush washer and tighten until it stops crushing.

It's always worked for me.

33 ft-lbs should be fine if you insist. Don't know if it's any different depending on the kind of washer you use. I had a copper washer that fit, and used that for my last oil change.

I switched over to using a fumoto valve

on my '03 Baja. Makes it a whole lot easier to drain the used oil.

It also makes it a whole lot easier to knock the valve off if you hit an obstacle...

What is wrong with simply turning a wrench to remove a drain plug??? It takes all of 20 seconds to remove or reinstall, and there's nothing whatsoever to fail even if the drain plug takes a direct hit from a rock/stump/what have you, unlike quick drain valves.

Is there a washer that's required to be replaced at every oil change when putting the plug back in? Just got my '01 Forester and wondering if this is a part I should stock up on for future oil changes.

Dan

I buy a new washer with the filter. The old one will probably seal, but it may seep a bit. If that happens, resist the temptation to give it "just a wee bit more torque" - live with the seep until the next oil change. Overtorquing can damage the oil pan threads, and is a common problem in Hondas. Dunno if Subarus have the same vulnerability, but I'd hate to learn the hard way :-(

Mike

My fumoto valve does not hang low enough to be an issue. I have been changing my own oil for over 30 years. What I really like about this valve is (1) I no longer get hot oil going down my arm when I unscrew the oil filler plug, (2) I do not have to worry about having a washer and (3) I do not have to worry about the possibility of cross-threading when reinstalling the drain plug (not to mention the torque measurement).

As always, YMMV. Just my 2 cents worth. Cheers!

I like the safety of the crush washer & bolt. In addition; the bolt hole allows the used oil the flush out rather than a slow flow. You can also modify the Fomoto valve so that all the old oil drains out. The instructions are simple and you only need a rat-tailed file and a vise. The instruction for modifying the valve is somewhere on the

web site and includes pictures on what needs to be done. JMO ed

Thanks to all. I just thought the torque may be listed somewhere. I've never owned a vehicle that required a crush washer on the drain plug.

putting the plug back in?

Hi,

The Subie factory washer is a rolled "crush" design. It SHOULD be replaced at each change, though you can probably get two or three uses out of one without leaks if you're careful.

But if you can find copper washers in the right size, you can use them MANY times before replacement. I used to get dozens of uses out of them on air-cooled VWs "back when." They were paper thin by then, but still sealed!

Rick

Hi,

Older Subies called for 34 ft/lbs. Don't know about newer ones.

Rick