Replace rear rotors

Should just slide off.

Is the rear rotor part of the assembly with the parking brake in the hub?

I don't remember.

I think you might want to buy a manual if you can't figure it by yourself!

Rich

You only need to take the caliper off to remove the rotors.

They may be stuck but nothing that w40 and a lil tapping won't take care of.

Yes, the rear rotors are part of the park braking system, The inside of the rotors acts as the drum for the parking brake shoes. They normally do not interfere with the rotor removal, but make sure that the hand brake is not applied.

Good luck!

JohnO wrote:

You will probably find the park brake drum makes up the inside of the rotor so if you release the park brake remove the caliper and it shopuld come off.

Neither do I, but I thought I'd bring it up in case it is.

An applied parking brake can make the job a PITA!

Thanks guys. Looks like an easy job then. Amazing that I actually paid people to do this with cars I owned years ago.

-John O

I replaced by rotors on my 96 OBW in Jan, and the only problem I had were loosening the rusted bolts. They took lots of "negotiating".

After that, the rotors slide off easily.

Good luck.

As mentioned, the e-brake "drum" is a part of the rotor; be sure the e-brake is off. Remove the caliper and carrier, either separately or as a unit. If the rotor/drum is stuck, there is a place where you can thread in two 8mm (?) screws to "jack" the rotor off of the hub. Use WD40 between the rotor and hub, and tighten the jacking screws evenly, a bit at a time. If this alone fails to free the rotor (unusual), try tapping lightly around the circumference with a wooden mallet while working the jacking screws. Tightening the lug nuts upon reassembly will pull the rotor back into position.

FWIW, easiest way to replace pads is to separate the caliper from the carrier. Remove 1 bolt; 12 or 14mm head, pivot the caliper away from the pads, and slide off of post. Use this opportunity to inspect and lube the "floating" mechanism and rubber boots. Compress the caliper piston with a "C" clamp, or your fingers if you're feeling strong. Check to be sure you're not overflowing fluid at the reservoir. Remove the old pads, and fit the replacements into the carrier. Push both pads up against the rotor, slide the caliper back on the post, being sure the boot engages the lip (you'll see when you get this far), pivot into place over the pads, and replace the bolt.

Takes less time to do it than it takes to describe it. Do be sure the floating "sleeve", and post are clean, lubed, and move freely, or you are asking for all sorts of troubles down the road, the least of which will be uneven pad wear. If the floating mechanism is seized, hit your local salvage yard for a replacement caliper/carrier. If one side is bad, odds are the other side is as well, so plan accordingly. No joke; this is a very common problem on these cars as they accumulate miles, and it is frequently overlooked and/or ignored by brake service monkeys in a hurry to get to lunch.

This procedure applies for the fronts as well, BTW.

Hope this helps.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Thanks, Steve. You've answered a few questions for me here.

-John O

Glad to be of service.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101