Seals...ugh

The right side cam support O-ring started leaking first (70K miles) on my '98 Legacy L. This part is cheap and easy to replace. The oil from this leak runs down the back of the right side head before ending up in the same general area as a leak from the rear seal would be found.

My front seal started to leak at 85K miles. My cam shaft seals never did start leaking, but, I replaced them when I fixed the front seal. My left side cam support O-ring may have been leaking a bit too. 105K miles and the back seal is still good.

Peter

There's a known problem on the 2.5 DOHC engine with the front crank seal. The oil pump back plate works loose and blows the seal. The fix is to remove the oil pump, remove the back plate, change the O-ring and seal, replace the back plate and LOCTITE THE RETAINING SCREWS!

Good time to change the timing belt, etc, if it hasn't been done.

To determine where the oil is coming from, Gunk and pressure-wash the underside of the engine and transmission and check it daily.

I have a 97 Brighton Legacy and it has the 2.2L engine standard.

I have exactly the same problem (made itself evident at 100K, I now have 131k). Both two dealers and my independent mechanic say that it's not possible to pinpoint what is leaking although it's clearly, at least, coming from somewhere on the front. They all say that the most likely course would be to replace all the seals, considering the basic labor, apparently, to get to the engine seals and the mileage on the engine Dealer wants 2K, indy mechanic says probably around $1500. For that cost I will put up with the oil smell for a long time. Besides I only need to add oil after about 2000-2500 miles. Putting in high mileage formulation oil seems to have slowed the rate of leakage (better than separate oil additives did). I park the car in the garage and put cardboard under it to soak up the oil drips but I'm sure you could find something to put in the driveway.

Jim

If you are patient and handy with tools, you cand do it yourself for about $100 in parts. If you're interested, I'll dig up my post where I described my adventure at fixing it.

Don't know about the original poster, but your first line does not describe me unfortunately :-( Jim II

Hi,

Sorry to hear that! But even so, the prices you quoted seem exceedingly high to me. Basically, I'd find what the labor charge is for a t-belt change, then add about an hour to hour and a half plus the price of the seals to come up with what I'd consider a reasonable starting price (naturally, things vary a bit, but you've gotta start somewhere!) A little research and talking with the dealer/mechanic may save you a buck or two.

And as advised by others, might as well do the t-belt, and some would suggest the water pump as well, all at the same time. You can do an awful lot on a single trip into that area of the engine without adding much labor.

Rick

The timing belt and water pump were done (for the 2nd time on the beltt) 8k miles ago. the oil leak which had been ongoing for 23k or more miles was not mentioned,,,apparently not from that vicinity.

Jim

I'm handy with tools, but don't fancy removing either the engine or the tranny, which is apparently what is required.

Bob

Wow, I'll consider myself lucky then. My local mechanic doesn't want to mess with it, but both the Soobie dealer and an indy transmission shop both said $500-600 CDN.

Bob

Check the driver's side rear cam cover, apparently the o ring can leak, and the oil travels to the rear of the oil pan, so it appears like a rear crank seal leak. Clean the area and re-check in a day or two (need to get under the car for this). Ed B

Just a follow on...

3 weeks later my crank pulley came loose did considerable damage to connected parts, reaching the wobbling stage, before I realized what the noise was. In replacing it & associated parts i see and o ring and oil sea and an o ring on the right rear cam seal. this seems to have stopped the leak.

Jim