speaky front wheel

Is that hub noticeably hotter after driving than the others? I'm thinking you still have a brake problem - possibly a stuck caliper.

Carl

- Pebble stuck between rotor and brake pad.

- Piston not retracting when you let off the brakes (the stuck caliper mentioned in the other post).

- Worn pads that need to be replaced (if it squeaks only when brakes are applied). Since they were replaced recently, did they remember the metal backing plate or to use the brake grease?

- Worn wheel bearing (usually more of a groan than a squeak).

- Broken coil spring (if squeaks when bouncing).

Don't know how your auto shop operates but I can usually get a free inspection from mine.

Alignment won't fix a tire that is out-of-round. I had them check alignment and suspension but couldn't get rid of the pull until I had the tire checked and found it was pressed off-center so replacing it fixed the pulling problem.

Rotate tires from front to back. If the hard pull goes away then you have a tire problem. Take the car for a short drive. Let it coast to a stop without using the brakes. If the RF rotor is hot to the touch then the pads are dragging.

I'm having the exact same problem... 2000 2.5RS. Hopefully we can find a solution, but seeing how the caliper was quite rusty when I changed my pads, I think that might be the culprit!

Here is a thread I started > My 01 Outback has a front wheel that has been squeaky for awhile now,

I have found squealy brakes in the past to be caused by:

Lack of grease between the pad and shims Pad spring shims bent out of shape thus not pressing against the pad Poor pad quality

The fact that the noise goes away when pressing the brake pedal leads me to believe that the caliper is working fine.

I have also found that the hub grease seals, when without proper lubrication, can cause a pretty loud squeal.

Good luck

Matt wrote:

Matt wrote: ...

... This problem has been written about before in this forum. As far as I have seen, nobody has pinpointed the solution I found when confronting the exact same problem:

Greasing the channel in which the caliper slides solves the problem, but only for a few weeks. This supports the theory that the caliper does not fully open when the brake pedal is released.

Maybe someone can suggest a more permanent cure.

The brake pads are fastened to the two faces of the caliper, so yes. When the brake pedal is pressed, the caliper faces (with the pads) are squeezed hydraulically against the rotating brake disk.

When the brake pedal is released, the faces of the caliper (with the pads) are supposed to back away from the disk. I d> You mean the channel in which the brake pads slide? That is kind of the

There are not such springs to return the pads. The pads return due to the flexing of the suspension components and any run-out that the brake disk may have.

The only springs in most systems, are the shim springs that are in charge of holding the pads firmly in their sliding groves, so there are no vibrations that could lead to noise (squeaks), and to prevent knocks caused by the pads moving freely in there.

When the pads/surface of the disk are not adecuate, the brakes can make noise even if this shims are do> The brake pads are fastened to the two faces of the caliper, so yes.

The pads are pushed be the caliper piston which is sealed with an O-Ring. The O-Ring slightly deforms and provides the force to move the piston back a few thousands of an inch.

Until you get a buildup of rust in the caliper bore under the piston boot, which prevents the piston from sliding easily back into the caliper. This results in the inner pad dragging against the rotor, causing squeaking, heat buildup and premature pad wear.

You can remove this rust buildup with fine sandpaper, either by hand or with a rotary tool. Remove the piston and piston seal (not an o-ring) first. Use extremely fine wet-n-dry sandpaper to polish the piston surface to get rid of any surface rust marks. Don't sand the caliper bore behind (inside) the seal groove. When you're done, the piston should easily slide into the bore before you reinstall the seal (if the bleeder screw is open to allow the trapped air to escape). If you're not replacing the seal, use a fingernail (not a metal object) to remove any rust buildup on the seal's surfaces. If you have a rotary tool and a soft grinding disk that fits the seal groove, you can very carefully use it to remove the rust buildup at the bottom of the groove that may make the seal fit tighter than it should. (A similar rust buildup occurs inside the caliper slide bores, on the surface of the rubber boot.)

With everything cleaned and reassembled, the caliper piston slides back into the bore with only moderate finger pressure, no c-clamp or other tool needed.

Bob

I think this may be my problem. I just reassembled both of my front brakes (EXCEPT the calipers themselves) cleaning all the corrosion from all brackets and lubricating all appropriate places... it's still squeaking.

I will try to clean the caliper as much as I can... because it really is rusty.

Bob Bail> > The pads are pushed be the caliper piston which is sealed with an

I think this may be my problem. I just reassembled both of my front brakes (EXCEPT the calipers themselves) cleaning all the corrosion from all brackets and lubricating all appropriate places... it's still squeaking.

I will try to clean the caliper as much as I can... because it really is rusty.

Bob Bail> > The pads are pushed be the caliper piston which is sealed with an