Synthetic oil fitler? 2000 OBW

Mobil1 10w30 + Subaru OEM filter + new crush washer Can't go wrong.

I use Puralator Pure One filters. I believe the regular Puralator filters are also suppose to be very good and only about half the price.

Hi,

IMO, you won't go wrong just sticking to OEM. People worry a lot about filter capacity, single and multi-pass efficiencies, etc. but the fact of the matter is most of what you see is some kind of advertising hype.

One thing to consider about synthetic oils and filters is you don't have as much buildup of crud in synthetics (assuming you're starting with a decent engine, not one that's been all crudded up thru years of irregular oil changes and the like) so the filter actually has an easier job than with most dino oil.

I can't speak to the XG series of Fram filters, but will say I've had better results with other brands in my Subie than the basic orange Xtra Guard or white Tough Guard Fram models (that's not necessarily my experience with other makes, though, lest anyone thinks I'm simply jumping on the "let's bash Fram" bandwagon.) Purolator makes the North American filters, so you'll be ok there, whether with the plain white one or the Pure One. If you get Bosch in your neighborhood, they've worked ok in my car, too (they come from Champion Labs, who also make the Mobil 1, the Wal-Mart Super Tech, and who knows how many other brands.)

Best of luck,

Rick

If you want a higher quality filter, the black OEM one (part #

15208AA080) for the turbo models seems to be "nicer". It has a thicker can, a different kind of filtering media, etc. It's made in Japan by "Tokyo Roki" (not Toyo Roki). It's smaller and more expensive. The threads and gasket dimensions are supposed to be the same as the standard filter.

What do you mean by "crud"? If you're talking contaminants, I'd think using synthetic oil wouldn't have much of an effect on how much dust, soot, or other particulate matter ends up in the oil.

I've heard from oil experts that it's myth that synthetic oil dissolves or loosens up built up crud/sludge. The inherent "detergency" of a true PAO-based oil is allegedly low. Mobil had a problem with their AV-1 aviation oil because it didn't "scavenge" lead as well as conventional oils.

External contaminants (dust and such) would be a constant regardless of what oil's in the sump. Oil-based internal contaminants (varnish, carbon buildup from oil burning off in places like valve stems and piston rings/skirts and ash, among others) should be less w/ synthetic. IF a particular engine DOES get significantly better fuel economy (not my experience, BTW, but some claim big gains), there will be less soot and carbon produced by combustion. And IF you get better ring sealing thru having cleaner rings (a claim I've heard but haven't seen documented), blowby should be reduced. YMMV on all these points.

I won't argue that one way or another, cuz it's definitely a debateable point. Anecdotal stories say synthetic has a tendency to clean out certain deposits. My personal experience tends to align itself with the anecdotes.

Rick

Get rid of the crush washer and change the drain plug for a Fumotovalve. Now you've got a perfect combination of oil and filter.

Nah, I need to have my character built each time the hot oil flows out over my hand (:

A second nod for the Fumotovalve. You can change your oil and filter w/o any tools.

DG wrote:

I've read a lot of good things about the Fumoto valve, but I can't get my mind past the thought that a valve might not stay closed when I'm hitting snow & ice drifts. I've never actually seen one though.

How does it actuate? Is there a lever?

There is a lever you have to lift up a couple mm then you have to turn the level 1/4 turn. You can get a 5/8" hose clamp to make it more secure as well.

I just got mine. Waiting for my next oil change to install it. :)

past the thought that

actually seen one

Thanks Jim. I busted a little section of my plastic front under-chassis shroud on a snow/ice drift last winter (Michigan), and I believe a Fumoto valve may've been sheared clear off. This sort of thing is typical in any cold-weather driving environment.

So is it possible that the whole valve concept is only viable for warm-weather/on-road conditions?

-Danny

Not on a WRX. You still need a socket set to get that big chunk of plastic off.