Type of antifreeze?

Hi,

Regular everyday Prestone, mixed 50-50 with DISTILLED water, has kept all MY cars happy for the last million miles or so. You can buy the pre-mix if you like to pay too much for water. I believe they use "de-ionized" water in the mix: it's probably "good enough" if perhaps quite as "clean" as distilled. Although Prestone claims their "new" formula mixes w/ anything out there, I still think it's probably a good idea NOT to mix it w/ Dex-cool type products (that WAS a recipe for trouble earlier on in development of the "extended life" coolants.) Unless someone's played w/ what they put in your Forester, that part should be a non-issue.

Air pockets? Ooh, boy. Check to see if your model has an air bleed valve (probably on or near the radiator near where the upper hose comes in? Mine doesn't have one, so let's rely on someone to point us in the right direction here.) That will help.

What I've found helpful w/ my "no air bleed" Subie (learned on a Toyota w/ one of their engines that was also famous for air pockets) is to fill the system as far as possible thru the point where the thermostat's mounted (t-stat is out at this time.) Then install the t-stat (OEM, BTW!) and continue filling "normally" thru the radiator until there's 2 to 3 inches of space left. With the front of the car higher than the rear (jacked up or on blocks if required), I turn the engine on w/ the radiator cap off. I have the heater on "full" at this time, too: some heaters "shut off" the coolant flow when off (Toyota style), others are constant flow (Subie style) but it helps either way IME--you want to make sure the heater core gets filled, which you'll know by heat coming out.

Run the car at idle until the t-stat opens and the temp's running "normal." I'll then run it up to a faster idle (around 2000 rpm or so) and run it a minute or so before dropping it back down. This helps get coolant circulated thru the heating system in case you've got "cold" coming out of the heater. Somewhere in here, you'll probably experience a big "burp" w/ coolant spilling out of the radiator. (That's common: be prepared to hose down the driveway so the neighborhood dogs and cats aren't tempted to taste it!) The temp gauge may also rise above normal, then take a big drop. Don't let it get to the red if it looks like it's headed that way. Shut the engine down and let it cool, w/ the rad cap still off. As it cools, the level of coolant in the radiator will probably drop considerably. Refill to the 2-3 inch "low" level and repeat the warm up drill. Shut it off and let it cool again (here it's helpful to let it sit overnight if you have the luxury of time.) When it's completely cool, refill the radiator to within about a half inch of the opening, install the cap, and make sure the overflow tank is filled to "full." Watch carefully the next couple of days of driving and refill the overflow tank as required (it should need SOME topping off, as you didn't fill the radiator completely!)

There MAY still be a little air in the system that will take some miles to work its way out, but this drill has cut WAY back on my "runs erratic temps after a coolant change" (translation: air pockets) problems.

Good luck,

Rick

Rick,

Thanks for your prompt and very informative response. Appreciate it.

AJay

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Subaru has determined that certain 1999 through 2002 model year 2.5L equipped Subaru vehicles may experience an external coolant leak from the cylinder head gaskets. This is the result of normal relative thermal expansion and contraction variations of engine parts. As a precautionary measure, SOA is recommending that a special conditioner be added to the engine cooling system to prevent leaks from occurring or to correct existing leaks.

Only early Phase II 2.5 liter engines are affected by this campaign. Phase I 2.5 liter engines (some 1999 model year and prior years) are not affected. Countermeasures applied to the manufacturing process for those 2002 and later VINS not affected by this campaign have eliminated the need for this campaign to be performed on those vehicles.

In the future, it will be necessary to add Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner to the SUBARU vehicle cooling system whenever the engine coolant is replaced. The updated recommended service procedure as well as intervals for coolant replacement will be added to all applicable service manuals. As a reminder, we will include an update page in the owner notification letters that should be added to the Owner?s Manual and Warranty and Maintenance Booklet. We ask you to keep in mind that replacement of fluids (including Subaru Cooling System Conditioner) during inspection and maintenance services are not covered under warranty.

If the vehicle owner has this Service Program repair performed promptly, Subaru will extend coverage under the Subaru Limited Warranty on the vehicle for cylinder head gasket external coolant leaks to a period of 8 years or 100,000 miles, whichever occurs first. Warranty coverage begins on the date the vehicle was delivered to the first retail purchaser. If the vehicle was used as a demonstrator or company vehicle before being sold at retail, warranty coverage begins on the date the vehicle was first placed in such service. As a further condition for this extended warranty coverage to apply, the vehicle owner must have Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner added to the vehicle at any subsequent cooling system services at the interval specified in the Warranty and Maintenance Booklet under the heading ?Schedule of Inspection and Maintenance Services?.

Dealers will automatically be sent an initial quantity of Genuine Subaru Cooling System Conditioner. Dealer bulletins and affected VIN lists will be mailed to dealers in early February 2004. Owner notification letters are scheduled for mailing in stages.

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Thanks to everyone who responded to my antifreeze question. All were great tips and I appreciated the responses.

AJay