1. Home
  2. Subaru Cars Forum
  3. What to do. Bad rod in Outback
  4. Page 2

What to do. Bad rod in Outback

Thanks. Two mechanics have now told me it's "internal." One said its a rod. Another mechanic said it might be the timing belt idler. I had a car with a bad bottom end, and as you said the noise was alarming to say the least. This just doesn't sound like that, yet. It's been getting worse over time -- I remember last summer thinking I might have a problem with oil pressure in the morning. Since then it's been getting worse, but very slowly and, again, compared to that car I had with a bad bottom end -- I junked it -- it doesn't sound bad at all.

The reason I keep asking questions is I remember having a Saab that I almost junked because it kept stalling and not starting. One of my mechanics kept replacing parts that never solved it, then I finally got it to a mechanic who really knew those older Saabs. He immediately replaced a cheap part in the fuel pump that solved the problem for good. Mechanics do make mistakes. I just don't like paying for them.

Thanks again for the extended post.

Reply to
Sheldon
Loading thread data ...

I apologize if I missed it, but did you mention what city you're in?

Perhaps someone reading here could recommend a mechanic that is good with soobs.

Carl

Reply to
1 Lucky Texan

I apologize if I missed it, but did you mention what city you're in?

Perhaps someone reading here could recommend a mechanic that is good with soobs.

Carl

Thanks, Carl. I'm up in Aspen and was just given the name of a new place that might be better. Unfortunately, the mechanic I used to use quit and now works for the fire dept. I'll bet I can get him to slide down the poll and have a listen. :-) My gut tells me it's not that serious, but then my gut isn't always right.

Reply to
Sheldon

Hi again Sheldon, Carl, All!

Sheldon, I went thru your posts again. If I were to hazard a WAG based on what you seem to be describing, I'd say your oil pump is getting tired.

It'll cost a bit, because it is kind of a pain, but have your oil pressure checked. I _think_ the number for a healthy engine is something between 45 and 65 PSI at some mid-range RPM (2500 ?), but a competent mechanic will know for sure, or know where to look it up.

Alas, replacing the oil pump involves getting behind the timing belt, with all the work that implies. At 200K, you are about due a timing belt anyway, so it might just make sense to give it a try if the pressure tests low.

But then:

I do my own work, and so know exactly who gets the blame when things don't work out as planned. It's one thing for me to spend a couple weekends messin' around with a car on the off chance I might find a cheap fix, but quite another to actually _pay_ someone to run the experiment.

If you ultimately _do_ decide to keep the OB, I'd suggest that your money would be better spent on a lo-milage used motor; labor costs will probably be similar (I can probably do an engine swap _faster_ than a timing belt/oil pump/etc), with a significantly higher chance for a happy ending.

Seems like I recall meeting a fellow from Carbondale a couple years back,who was knowledgable regarding Subarus, but time has erased the details. I can ask my buddy Bob (who remembers everything) if you think it will help.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

Why would you insure a car that was worth so little? If it gets nicked you can just buy another in the same condition out of your pocket money.

My rule of thumb is to do repairs on an old car as long as their annual cost averages to less than the payments would be on a car in near-new condition.

A new car is going to cost you the thick end of $5k *every* year.

Reply to
Bruce Hoult

I agree with this if it were to be amended to once the annual cost exceeds the annual cost of a suitable replacement that provides the same or better experience. That experience being defined by luxury, comfort, performance, utility, etc... I guess the discerning thing here is that I would include other used cars in the evaluation. I went from a 245k mile car to a 120k mile car and am glad. It is definitely not new or even near new, but is much more reliable and has better performance even though it is the same model of car just three years newer with less use. Oddly, once I bought the replacement for my 95 subaru things stopped breaking. I will keep driving it until it dies, then the 98 becomes my daily driver.

Reply to
weelliott

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.