my both subies are running low on coolant - I do not see anything on the bottom of the reserve canister (however in the radiator itself it seems be okay). So I need to top off what is missing.
I did the homework, googled usent and Internet but have not reach the conclusion.
So far I see following possibilities: -yellow Prestone -Zerex G-05 (fount at Murrays and Autozone for $11/gal) -ROTELLA® ELC (on the bottle lable they claim it is phosphate-free and silicate-free) - here are more detqail:
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Also from our group research I assume that DEX-COOL based products are not worth consideration.
I also checked with the dealer - they do not use/sell OEM at all while insteed Mobil and Motorcraft product @ $20/gal.
So please advice what I should do, thx in advance.
How come? You don't mention what model/year your subies are.
The consequences of using hte wrong stuff are high enough in a cooling system that I'd personally save my time nad cheerfully pony up the extra $9 at the dealer and know I had the right stuff.
Best Regards,
-- Todd H.
2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
I'm a fan of Rotella products. I use their diesel truck oil in my Subie as it has extra acid-neutralizers and other protective stuff. If it's silicate-free and phosphate-free, and is cost-competitive, I'd use it. I used the yellow bottle Prestone (all-color, silicate-free) on my last change, and it's fine, too.
both are 2002: Impreza 2.5TS and regular Outback MT. it was referred to as death-cool and I saw pictures of damaged water pump too while Zerex G-05 seemed to be preferred.
it is not about $9 (+tax :-) difference but about understanding the details.
and dealership knowing that right - saw things as weird as fixing windows squeaky sound with WD-40. All 'treatment' wound up with the bottom part of the window itself being covert by the thin layer of the WD-40 hard to get rid of ...
it will raise it. however, if you're talking a pint of fluid to the "low" mark; buying a gallon of antifreeze & mixining it 50/50 and adding it vs a pint of water, in teh end, the % difference will be barely noticable.
If you're worried - and d>Josh Ass>> If you're not that low; just add some water.
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If what's in there now is greenish/yellow colored, suggest regular ol' Prestone (that's now labeled "mixes with all coolants" or something like that), mixed 50-50 w/ DISTILLED water. If it's reddish/orange colored, find out what's in there and add the same, or drain, flush REALLY WELL, and refill the entire system w/ Prestone/distilled water (a good idea every two years or so, regardless of what the advertising is about how long a particular coolant lasts.) And, unless you like spending too much money, or, heaven forbid, don't know how to mix equal parts of substances to get a 50-50 mix, don't buy the "pre-mixed" stuff: you're just spending a LOT on a half gallon of "de-ionized" water!
The "no phosphate" and "no silicate" warnings are more for preservation of cooling systems from the chemical interactions w/ various "stuff" in tap water for those who just pour water from a hose into their systems than because of any inherent "evil" in the coolant itself. Using DISTILLED water negates most of the "problems."
Some worry of premature wear on water pumps w/ silicate bearing coolants. I don't know if there's any truth to that. I've used Prestone/distilled water for close to thirty years, and my water pumps generally last LONGER than most people I know who aren't picky about what goes in their systems.
Just a few personal cars to illustrate:
Subie--360k miles, 1 w/p (at 300k+), radiator replaced at 250k+ due to some clogging (I got this car at 209k, and I don't know what the previous owner used, but I suspect he wasn't picky, judging by other items on the car. I wonder if the radiator would still be good had I gotten it new? My Subie parts guy confirmed from some date code that the w/p was original.)
Toyota Camry--236k miles, 1 w/p (forget the exact mileage but it was past 150k), radiator replaced at 180k+ miles due to impact damage from road hazard
Toyota p/u--136k miles, original pump, radiator "perfect"
VW Rabbit--189k miles, 1 w/p at 125k+, radiator replaced at 110k+ miles due to impact damage from road hazard
Both the replaced radiators were "perfect" with respect to cleanliness. Now if we could just get the gravel trucks to stop throwing rocks... both the radiator and windshield guys would have a lot more leisure time!
IMO, there's a bit too much worry in general on the internet about what coolant to use. However, there IS documented evidence of serious problems when mixing Dexcool spec coolants w/ non-Dexcool spec fluids. There CAN be chemical interactions that will kill your cooling system. The "possible offenders" are generally colored reddish or orange (except for Toyota, who has sold "red" conventional coolant for years--it's a brand ID thing with them, I guess.)
Good post. Also, search this group or the web for 'burping subaru cooling system' or a phrase similar. It can be tricky to get all the air out of the system if it is opend or has gotten very low.
Two readily available "universal" coolants that you can use are the Prestone "All Makes All Models" (NOT their regular green stuff) and Peak Global. Both are available in 50/50 premix form so you don't have to worry about mixing them yourself or using distilled water. I have used both of these coolants in my Subaru with no issues.
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