Car seems to drive ok. Has a steering wheel vibration and bounce back and forth, but rotating tires eliminated it. However, when first trying to diagnose the problem I found this. Is this normal
Car seems to drive ok. Has a steering wheel vibration and bounce back and forth, but rotating tires eliminated it. However, when first trying to diagnose the problem I found this. Is this normal
Here is another one
Reach in there with some pliers and grab the axle shafts. See if they have any play in the CV joints. As it is doing it on both sides I would suspect it as gear backlash in the differential. Some is entirely normal, without it the gearing would destroy itself from the heat the friction generates. Easy way to track it would be to use a mechanics stethoscope and listen to the various parts as you move the tires. It will get louder as you get closer.
Electronic Stethoscopes for listening to engine noises. I wonder if they are any good for finding home water systems/water leaks?
Have to look closely but it looks like the entire half-shafts on both sides are moving all the way into the diff. As Steve W. said, if that is the case then it's normal. My Kia does the same thing.
The common mechanical ones won't. The ones that are basically hearing aid amplifiers might help IF the leak is under pressure and actually acting like a fountain, but if that is the case they should be readily apparent.
The best I can tell the clicking when moving the wheels back and forth is coming from the differential. Is the "clicking" sound normal?
Can anyone explain what the entire axle looks like and how many/where the cv joints are? I have more experience with rear wheel drives and have never taken the axle on a front wheel drive apart.
You have 2 CV joints and 2 Tripod (or tri-pot) joints.
In the Noise2 video the joint to your right (inboard) is a tripod type universal joint. The one on the left (outboard) is a Rzeppa type constant velocity joint.
The tripod joint has three bearings on a yoke that ride in channels in the outer housing. As the suspension travels over bumps this style joint can plunge in/out to allow the half-shaft (solid steel item connecting the two joints) to expand/retract as needed.
Yes, you have 2 Tripod and 2 Rzeppa joints.
Failure wise you have the boots as the most common failure item. They make split boots that you can install without removing the axle. I consider them a band-aid repair. They work but I'd rather replace the joint.
Next on the failure list is the outer Rzeppa joint. The most common way to tell these have failed is when you hear LOUD clicking snaps from the front end on hard low speed turns. Like turning into a driveway or parking spot.
Last is the inner tripod joint. I don't think I've ever seen one that the joint itself failed, usually it's that the boot failed and contaminated the grease.
As to replacement. Long ago when they first started using them or you had a unique unit you would replace just the failed joint and boot.
These days you just replace the entire half shaft assembly. It's less work overall, faster and usually costs about the same.
To replace either joint you have to do all the same work you would to replace the unit. Plus you need to remove the old boot, clean off all the old grease, then remove the joint. Next install the new boot, install the new joint, fill everything with grease and seal up the boot.
For instance on the 07 Escape -
The replacement boot and grease for one joint runs $43.00 Replacement CV joint/boot kit is $78.00
Complete axle shafts run around $90.00 each for the "common" units. Can be more depending on the engine and options.
Is it hard to replace the entire axle?
Define Hard?
The short answer is "it depends". The basic process isn't hard IF you have the tools. Set the parking brake IF it works and will release!!!
Next step depends on if you have air tools or manual. Basically with manual tools, you break the axle nut loose with a LONG bar and the vehicle on the ground and then jack it up and take the tire/rim off. If you have an air impact or a GOOD electric or some cordless units, you can jack it up first, remove the tire/rim, then remove the axle nut.
Back the nut off and hit the end of the axle with a dead blow or chunk of wood to free it from the hub. Remove the lower ball joint bolt, pop the joint out of the knuckle. Move the knuckle out while pulling the axle free from the rear. Reach in behind the inner joint with 2 pry bars and pop it free of the retainer ring. Pull the axle out of the differential holding the inner joint. DO NOT simply yank on it using the outer joint as you can pull the inner joint apart and create a real headache for yourself.
To install you lube the stub shaft with trans fluid, slide it in place and give it a sharp shove to reseat the retaining ring. Slide the outer joint into the hub. Attach the ball joint. Install the axle retaining nut and torque it down. Install the rim/tire. Let it back down. Final torque the nut. Repeat for other side. Replace any trans fluid that may have leaked out. (If you use a jack and lift the side you're on high enough you probably won't lose any) Test drive.
Book time is around an hour for one side 1.5 for both, If you don't dawdle you can do both in around 45 min to an hour.
Couple vids. First is a different style vehicle but covers the process. Second is on an Escape but he pulls the strut apart, I don't do that as A - it takes longer B - you can end up screwing up the alignment.
Thanks so much! I will say none of the boots look damaged.
So the axle simply pulls out of the differential?
Where exactly is the lock ring you were talking about?
The axle pulls out, the lock ring is in a groove on the splined shaft that the axle slides into/over depending on the joint design.
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