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1995 blazer s10 parasitic draw

I am helping a friend with his 95 4 door S10 blazer. its been running down the battery when not running.

Truck starts fine when jumped. did a current draw test on all fuses on the panel next to the drivers door. Nothing unusual with the truck not running. taking the battery cable off and inserting current meter showed around 1 amp. way too much draw with the car off.

took off the alternator wires, draw went away. shorted the two lugs hooked to the alternator together while NOT connected to the alternator,

1 amp draw back. alternator OK.

On the drivers side fender, there is a power distro block that has 6 or seven wires on fusible links from a central wire from battery. I unhooked one at a time, and bingo, found one that dropped the current draw down to Milli-amps.

So, i got that far. I have no manual yet. The cars starts and runs with this wire disconnected. So, i tried to figure out what does NOT work to see what this wire controls.

things that seemed NOT to work now. Power door locks (power windows OK), radio, stop lights, 4 way flashers (headlights and rear running lights seem OK) interior overhead lights.

I am thinking the door locks area the primary area to check. What controls the power door locks? the BCM? anyone have a link for an electrical schematic for a 95 4door S10 blazer?

bob

Reply to
bob urz
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Bob, Did you wait long enough between measurements to be sure that all systems had "gone to sleep"? This may take a minute or two.

If the drain is constant, you are lucky. It will make it a lot easier to find when you get the schematic.

I had a Regal that did similarly to this, and it nearly drove me crazy. I finally found it...seat belt retractor relay was activating throughout the night, leaving me with a dead battery every morning.

Sorry I dont have concise information for you.

Reply to
hls

Power door locks are the #1 worry, unless you have an electrically heated driver's door lock in which case it's probably on the same circuit and the power lock is the #2 worry.

I don't have a schematic BUT I warn you not to believe the schematic in the Haynes manual. It is.... an artists rendition of what they'd like the wiring to be like....

--scott

Reply to
Scott Dorsey

If this is a 4.3 engine -

Pull the Power Accessory Breaker A ( Horn/DM) Connect the fusible link. If the draw is still there it isn't the door locks or the key-less entry module.

Fuse 13 - radio

Fuse 19 - Transfer case (if electronic shift)

Fuse 7- Auxiliary power outlets

Fuse 1 - Hazard lamps/Brake lights

Fuse 2 - interior lights, rear hatch switch, lighter, keyless entry, mirrors

pull NOT out of my address and drop me a note and I'll give you a link to a manual with schematics.

Reply to
Steve W.

How old is the battery??? Maybe it's on its way out.

Reply to
m6onz5a

bob, ck the light filaments(1157)style, and sockets for shorts, corrosion or chaffing.

Reply to
bill berg

Thanks for the links for the schematics here is what i found so far

Radio/RDO fuse .9A interior lights .2 amps

found the lighted sun visor on the drivers side had its cover missing, without the cover, it never shut off. Kind of borked it, but took the bulbs out. draw gone now there

Have not got the radio out yet to see if that's the other culprit. When i first put the fuse in, i hear a motor running. I am speculating there might be a CD stuck in it and the motor on the eject is somehow causing the draw. Unknown now until its out

Bob

Reply to
bob urz

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