Here is what I've been able to piece together about the 2002 Honda Accord EX. If someone in the know could review it and point out anything I've missed or got wrong.. Most appreciated!
I'm installing a remote starter, hoping to integrate it with the factory alarm. I'll be wiring in a starter kill, so I know I'll need to cut it between the key and fuse box. No biggie, I'd probably do that anyway.
I'll rig it into the hood pin by splicing into it, and adding a diode to each wire after the splice.
I'll use the factory alarm disarm wire on the Base Unit to run to the disarm No unlock wire. That way the alarm doesn't go off when the car starts. From what I understand this is a pain to get to... but really the only way shy of permanently disarming the factory alarm.
Aside from that it'll be the standard splicing for the trunk, doors and whatnot.
The transponder bypass could present a bit of a challenge. In the past I've just pulled the resistor off of the key and wrapped it up. This key doesn't look like it'll be easy to take apart. It doesn't even look like a transponder key... I'll pick up a bypass unit and use that. Is there any reason that clipping the ridges on the key would affect it? I don't want the key to actually be able to function if it's stripped out. I've heard stories of car thieves breaking into cars they know have a remote starter because they know they just need to strongarm out the box with the key and use it to start the car and enable the ignition. I realize they could probably rig something pretty quickly even if I did this, but the extra minute could be the difference between getting away and getting scared off.
Thanks!
Joseph Michaud
12volts white + ignition harnessStarter black/white + ignition harness If doing starter kill, must interrupt the wire between the keyswitch and the fusebox, not between the fusebox and the starter, to keep the check engine light from coming on.
Ignition black/yellow + ignition harness
Power Lock black/blue - passenger side fuse box in a green 20 pin connector.
Power Unlock orange - passenger side fuse box in a green 20 pin connector
Lock Motor white/red driver side fuse box
Unlock Motor yellow driver side fuse box
Disarm Defeat lt. green/red
Parking Lights+ red/black driver side fuse box
Parking Lights- red/yellow steering column
Hazards
Turn Signal(L)
Turn Signal(R)
Door Trigger black/white - passenger side fuse box In a green 4 pin connector.
Dome Supervision use door trigger
Trunk/Hatch Pin orange - drivers kick panel Above the hood release in a gray 18 pin connector
Hood Pin yellow/red or yellow - hood pin switch or On the EX models it is in a green plug next to the passenger side fuse box
Trunk/Hatch Release white/red + drivers kick panel
Power Sliding Door
Factory Alarm Arm Arms and disarms with the door locks on the EX models.
Factory Alarm Disarm Arms and disarms with the door locks on the EX models.
Disarm No Unlock blue - On the EX the wire is located at the drivers power window switch
Tachometer blue tach test connector The tach test connector is located behind the battery on the 4 cylinder, and on a bracket attached to the drivers side strut tower on the 6 cylinder motor. The tach test connector is a white 2 pin connector, and may be covered by a black rubber boot.
Horn Trigger lt. green/blue - steering column
Memory Seat 1 Memory Seat 2 Memory Seat 3
Category: Immobilizer Bypass Required: Yes Type: Transponder