82 Ford Escort Timing Belt And Water Pump Problem

I have a 1982 Ford Escort (yes I know, a POS) with a 1.6 liter engine. It has been sitting for about 6 months. What happended is the water pump decided to seize up (bad bearing I gather) and completely shredded the teeth on the timing belt. Needless to say I was very angry. My friend and I managed to pull the old timing belt and the water pump out of the car. It is ready for a new pump and timing belt. My question is how should I check for valve damage? I really do not want to remove the head or the valve cover. We have rotated both the crank and camshaft. (in the proper direction of course.) they both seemed to rotate freely and with out binding. But I want to be sure the valves are OK. By the way how do I go about putting the timing back together peice by piece, step by step?

Thanks, Kona

Email if you wish with answers at snipped-for-privacy@msn.com

Reply to
Kona0197
Loading thread data ...

The customary method would be a cylinder leakdown test. Turn the crankshaft to TDC, turn the camshaft so the rotor is pointing to the terminal for #1 sparkplug, install cylinder leakdown tester in #1 sparkplug hole and take a reading. Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees, rotate the camshaft 90 degrees (in the normal direction of rotation) repeat cylinder leakdown test on cylinder #3. Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees, rotate the camshaft 90 degrees, repeat cylinder leakdown test on cylinder #4. Rotate the crankshaft 180 degrees, rotate the camshaft 90 degrees, repeat cylinder leakdown test on cylinder #2.

You probably don't own a cylinder leakdown tester nor have access to the necessary compressed air needed to perform the test, it would probably be cheaper to just install the new T-belt and waterpump, start the engine and see how it runs. Or, you could take the vehicle to a professional who has the equipment and have them do the leakdown test.

The odds that a valve didn't bend when the T-belt went are NOT in your favor.

Invest in the proper repair manual, that way you'll have the advantage of the graphics that show proper timing mark alignment and torque specs.

Reply to
Neil Nelson

Would it be better to take some pictures and sell the whole thing on ebay or should I attemp to fix it? I am not really attached to this car. If i want to fix it I would be out $29 bucks at the most. If it has valve damage then I guess I am SOL because i do not have $600 or more for a new head and what not...

Reply to
Kona0197

Ideas anyone?

Reply to
Kona0197

I need some ideas everyone.

Reply to
Kona0197

Did it still run at all before you took it apart? If so, the belt might have just slipped a tooth & you might be OK damage wise. If that¹s the case, then slap on a new belt and see if it runs. If not, you are just out the price of a belt (and a water pump).

Putting on a new belt involves making sure the sprocket on top is in the correct position relative to the one at the bottom. You will have to either buy a repair manual (about $20 at your local parts store), or you might get lucky and find one at your local public library (some of the bigger ones have them).

It is an interference engine, so if it quit running altogether, you probably do have some valve damage. Being an 82 and if it is the POS you say it is, the whole car is probably not worth the cost of repairing the valves. You might be able to collect some cash from it by parting it out.

Reply to
E. Meyer

I installed the new water pump. I then set all four pistons to mid block and turned the camshaft 3 times. It turns freely and easyly so does mean I got lucky? the crank also turns easy as well. thanks.

Reply to
Kona0197

That just means nothing has broken off and jammed it. You still have two choices, put on the belt and see it runs, or have it tested to find out in advance if its going to run.

Reply to
E. Meyer

Well I got everthing put back in place. I installed a new water pump and after alot of research, a new timing belt. Went to start the thing after jumping the battery and nothing...dosen't even turn over at all or make any noises. I am thinking the battery is shot because it has sat in the weather for 8 months, and it will not hold a charge. After trying to charge it with jumper cables for a hour not even the dome lights work.

Any thoughts?

Reply to
Kona0197

Thoughts?

Reply to
Kona0197

Well, if it won't even turn on the dome light with jumper cables, I would say there is a real good chance you didn't reconnect a wire somewhere, or blew the main fuse. Check all the wires from the battery back, from the starter, and from the alternator. If you can't find any unconnected or really loose wires, then check all the fuses and breakers.

Reply to
E. Meyer

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.