96 honda accord Lx

hey my fuel gauge in the dash works..but when i step on the brakes and slow down to come to a stop...the gauge slowly moves down...i dont know why it does this but anyone knows whats wrong??

"noi" wrote in news:1159723430.102029.11410 @i3g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

Has the car ever been in a frontal collision?

im not sure.....why do you ask that?

"noi" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

Originally I was thinking a ground problem. Sometimes grounds get compromised during a collision and the subsequent repair.

Now I'm realizing you've provided little info to go on here. Please answer these questions:

1) When the gas gauge drops, does it do so slowly or very quickly? Does the needle bounce? 2) Does it drop faster the harder you brake? 3) Does it ever rebound back to where it was? And if so, how fast, and under what conditions? 4) Does the gauge needle climb when you accelerate hard for ten seconds or so? 5) What does the needle do during long right bends in the road? Left bends?

1) the needle doesnt bounce...but it depends on how hard i step on the brake...or when the gas is really low......but it drops down pretty slowly.... 2) yes

3) yes it goes back to where it was sometimes...when the engine is cold the next day..or when im at a red light and its on idle...

4) yes it does

5) sometimes it drops a little but sometimes it dont

well i hope you will give me some advice...cause i dont know what is wrong with it...thanks

What you're describing sounds normal. As the gas sloshes around in the tank, the sender float rides up and down, bobbing along with the level changes. Your gas gauge has a damper mechanism that's designed to minimize needle movement due to rapid transient changes in fuel level, but it won't eliminate fluctuation entirely.

It may be that your damper mechanism is a little more sensitive than it should be, but it's certainly nothing to worry about. My gas gauge behaves much the same as yours.

is there anyway to fix it????

"noi" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

I *believe* the damping is performed by a capacitor and perhaps a resistor inside the instrument. These buffer the signal so the needle sees a slowly changing signal instead of one that fluctuates wildly as the sender's float bobs up and down on the fuel.

Realistically, the only way to eliminate the needle movement would be to either replace the instrument in the hopes that the next one has slightly more buffering, or to replace the individual components on the instrument for others with better characteristics.

I'm not sure either of the above are really practical, unless you acquire another gauge from a wreck and install it yourself to see if that helps. I don't think you'd like the price if you had somebody do it for you.

well thanks for the advice...i might look into that....hey do you know much about radio wires....cuz im not getting power to the wires going to the rear of the speakers on both side....i dont know whats wrong with that...the fuse and everything is good....