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97 Blazer 4.3 Ignition timing $10 for solution

97 blazer s-10 4.3 Vortec 85k miles

I had some problems with the fuel injectors before, and suddenly I was getting cylinder 5 misfires, and my car would run rough. I was planning to replace the cylinder 5 fuel injector, when the day before...

I was driving around 50mph when my engine suddenly died. I drifted about 200 feet and parked. I tried to crank my engine but it seemed like my battery had died. I thought at first that it could have been a dead alternator, but then I checked my battery and it was running at

13V. I tried to jump it, crank it. Still it wouldn't crank. I had it towed to my house and figured out that the positive battery terminal was poorly connected for some reason, and that fixed the cranking problem. The only problem is that my car would not start at all. It actually started to backfire and I couldn't get it to turn over. I checked my spark plug wires, distributor cap, and replaced my rotor. I checked my mechanical timing, and replaced my Ignition control module, Crankshaft position module. My fuel pressure is at about 65psi, and I can smell a lot of gas out the exhaust and on the spark plugs, so that was not a problem. I tried to locate the under hood fuse-relay center, but I couldn't find it anywhere. I have a good spark from my coil, but the spark is not correctly timed so I receive no spark down my spark plugs.

I think the problem is that my spark is off timed. I did a test and put a copper wire all the way around my distributor cap, and I received a perfect spark down the spark plug I tested every time. It seems like, for some reason, the VCM is telling the spark to fire when it is between the distributor cap rods.

If anyone has the solution to my problem I would be GREATLY appreciated, and I would even be willing to give a $10 check or pay pal donation for your working solution.

Thanks- Kory Kendziora snipped-for-privacy@viworld.com

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Reply to
Kory
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Not knowing the specifics of your distributor, I would take a close look at the distributor, cap, rotor and ignition module installation. Is it possible that the ignition module is mounted on a spring-weighted centrifugal force plate that adjusts the position of the pickup on the distributor cam to adjust timing? If so, maybe the ignition mounting screw has jamed the plate in one position? Or is it possible to mount the rotor on 180 deg out?

Also, I've seen GM 6-cylynder distributor cap's hold-down bolts too close to the spark wire-to-rotor contact and draw the affected cylinder's spark to ground before getting out of the cap.

Good Luck!

- Bill

Reply to
Bill Hodgson

How can I figure out if it is shorting on the screws? A mechanic freind of mine mentioned there being some sort of pencil looking marks on the cap, which I did not come across (no obvious markings rather than the sandpaper scatches from my sanding the contacts). Also, how would I go about fixing that sort of problem? Thank you very much for your info!

Thanks- Kory

Reply to
Kory

Kory wrote in rec.autos.tech

That will do it right there. Those marks mean that the spark is tracking down the inside of the distributor cap instead of going out the wires as it is supposed to. Replace the cap and rotor.

which I did not come across (no obvious markings rather

Reply to
Dick C

I would think that if this was the case, I would have misfires because the screws are only located near two of the rods... Would it drop the coil voltage to the point where it would not produce spark to the other connectors?

Thanks for the suggestion... I'll probably go and buy a new Dist. cap today. -Kory

Reply to
Kory

Solution FOUND.

Distributor Cap had carbon lines which shorted to external screws! What a horrible design!!!

Thanks everyone for all of your help!

-Kory

Reply to
Kory

Dick, did he pay you the $10? Just wanted to make sure he didn't forget! s

Reply to
sdlomi2

sdlomi2 wrote in rec.autos.tech

Um, no. Not yet.

Reply to
Dick C

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