98 4cyl Camry with 150k mileage. Need tuneup info and brake info.

Spark plugs should be changed, or at least cleaned and reset, according to the manufacturers specifications. With the newer ignition systems, it is not as critical as it once was. At this mileage, it is reasonable enough to change them. Maybe you would like to get a plug wrench and learn how to do this.

The comments below are mine alone and you can TIOLI:

The rear drums don't need resurfacing either if they are not damaged, and the initial adjustment is a part of the procedure. Takes 5 minutes. Afterwards the adjustment should be automatic. Invoicing can nickel and dime you to death.

It isn't difficult to drain and refill at all. You should probably change your hoses about now, and this would be an ideal time to perform this service. Some might want to change the thermostat at the same time.

Drain and filter change is enough. Don't let those caca daddies sell you a flush. 115K is too long. Every 30-50,000 miles is more like it. Read your manual.

Flush out the old brake fluid and replace every 2-3 years. Many don't do this. If you had a Teves system, you damn sure would.

If the fuel filter plugs, you stop dead in the water. Changing the filter is pretty cheap preventative maintenance. Simple to do. Follow the manufacturers recommendation.

It can be different in some cases. Check your manual for service intervals.

It depends on what the noise is indicating. If your pads have bottomed out, or the rotors are overheating and warping, then yes they do need to be resurfaced, otherwise not.

That's a lot of money you could save by doing the pads yourself. It's a 10 minute job once you know the procedure.

Is it running on all the cylinders or running 'choppy'? Is the check engine light on? It could be the IAC valve again. Could also be a vacuum leak or sensor problem. Or...

Yes, and it's about time. You could easily have a wire with cracked insulation causing no spark in that cylinder. This is also something you can do yourself. Obtain new plugs and a spark plug socket. Remove the old plugs, using penetrating oil if necessary; avoid taking the threads out with them... Note the condition of the plugs and compare to each other. Use anti-seize on THREADS of new plugs (don't get it on the tip) and install them good'n'tight. Do not cross-thread the plugs in the cylinder head.

Replace the wires one by one so you don't lose their location. You could also check coil pack resistance at this time.

It should be changed every few years. It is a good time to do this too. Ignoring it will allow your radiator and/or heater core to clog up with contaminants, and potentially destroy your water pump, leading to catastrophic overheat.

Flush out the radiator with a garden hose. There is a drain c*ck at the bottom of the radiator that you remove to drain it. This does not replace all of the coolant (some will remain in the heater core and block) but it will renew the anti-corrosion components and remove most of the contamination floating around.

Continue changing your oil and filter on a regular 3K schedule with quality oil and a reputable filter, and your engine should provide you with a long service life.

Drain and refill unless you let the maintenance get out of hand, in which case it should be flushed. It sounds like you have not let the maintenance get out of hand, so don't get lazy now.

Some say every year, some say every 50k. It depends on the particular brake system. Most people do it whenever they change their rear brakes, which is to say not as often as the front brakes, but on a reasonable schedule.

Remember, what you are trying to prevent here is the brake lines being corroded from the inside by moisture in the system. Flushing the brake fluid is much cheaper and less of a pain than running new brake lines. Make sure you get it done by someone who will not bottom-out your pedal when doing it or you will be in for a new master cylinder shortly.

Same time as spark plugs and wires. It keeps crap from getting into your injectors. Changing it keeps it from clogging and burning up your fuel pump (or at least affecting fuel pressure). Using OEM fuel filters on fuel injected cars is recommended by many people.

It can be. Check your owner's and/or Haynes/Chiltons/Mitchell manual. Some cars take motor oil in the differential. Most take tranny fluid. Some don't have a separate area for differential fluid and it simply circulates from the transmission.