AC Condenser leaks - how to repair?

Hi,

I'm a knucklehead DIYer. Last fall I successfully replaced the radiator on my Toyota T100 pickup.

Now I'm trying to replace the AC condenser. After several years of slow leaks & seaonal R134a refills, I began to notice shiny, neon green around some of the condenser coils.

It's been quite a while since the last charge. I'm guessing there isn't much refrigerant left.

Question(s): Can I unbolt the old condenser and pop on the new one? Do I need new seals/gaskets? Do I need to somehow prime the new condenser? Is there any chance there would be any refrigerant left? Do I need to add oil into the system? Do I need other parts, or tools?

I assume I'm in over my head, that's nothing new. But can I come out the other side with all ten digits attached and possibly a working, chilly AC? Summer's coming....

Oh, yeah. I bought a Silla condenser, new, that's supposed to be a direct fit replacement, with a lifetime warranty.

b.

Reply to
Bardy
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I understand your situation.. You really need to be sure where the leak is occuring. This isnt easy to do, sometimes, without access to a modern electronic refrigerant detector.

Parts are expensive, and you can throw a ton of money at a problem that you do not diagnose properly.

When you open the sealed system, you have to think about (1) legal aspects (discharge of refrigerant), (2) making sure you are going to replace the leaky component(s), (3) reassembly with new o-rings or seals, (4) replacement of filter/dryer, (5) evacuation of the system with a vacuum pump, and then (6) proper recharge.. (Did I miss anything?)

Yes, I did, as a matter of fact...If you are losing a lot of refrigerant, are you also losing lubricant...Probably. You may have to add a little.

It is not rocket science, but to have a long life repair, you need to deal with all these issues.

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is a good source that I have used a lot of times.

Read, ask questions, and LAST OF ALL, get with the program.

Reply to
HLS

You can do this, but you need to decide first if you want to learn how and if you are planning to do it again. The tools to do the job right will cost more than having it done, but you end up with the tools which usually makes it worth it to me.

You should have a shop recover the 134a that is still in the system. You can also just vent it, but that's not real legal or good for the environment so at least pretend you had it recovered if you don't.

You will need new O-Rings at the connections for the new condenser

You need a new dryer.

You will loose oil in the old condenser and dryer. How much is a hard guess. The FSM probably gives you a guesstimate. I usually just drain the compressor, and flush the condenser (and I replace the expansion device while I have it out). Then you can feel pretty safe with putting back the factory fill amount.

After all that is done you have to use a Vacuum pump to pump down the system and remove all the air. If you skip this step it doesn't cool real well and the air and oil turn in to corrosive stew that eats holes in everything else. Do a little research on how to use the vacuum pump to pump down the system and check for leaks.

Now you are ready to fill it back up with refrigerant. Best to have a good set of hoses so you can measure high and low pressure.

Educate yourself on how the systems work before you even think of beginning. Once you understand how the system works it isn't all that complicated. It can be damn aggravating though when you do all that work and still have a leak and get to start all over again at step 1

Steve B.

Reply to
Steve B.

Assuming that tracer dye has been added...

Push on one of the service valves with a pocket screwdriver.

Probably.

Absolutely.

"Prime?" No. Do remove the shipping caps from the fittings though.

Why would it matter?

Yes, the condenser (and all other components) has an oil capacity specification. Use the correct oil type and viscosity.

Replace the receiver/drier.

Cap off any open fittings while you work.

Best would be to flush the entire system and add back the correct amount of oil to each component as specified by Toyota. Too much oil = poor cooling, too little oil = seized compressor. Pull a deep vacuum to 500-700 microns, shut off vacuum pump and isolate and watch for a vacuum rise.

Never heard of the brand. Hope it's not cheap Chinese knock off crap.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

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