what do you all use to reglue plastic to the insides of metal car doors? I am about to that point with my '55 Stude and it never had plastic there, just little pieces of tar paper over the holes originally.
I have tried silicone before as well as Permatex No. 2 on other cars and wasn't perfectly happy with either.
thanks
nate
Try 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Available in black and in yellow. It's a contact cement, probably based on urethane, so it's somewhat flexible when it dries and the joint won't crack with temperature changes. It's pretty expensive as contact cement goes, but it's good stuff. Be sure to clean both surfaces thoroughly with alcohol before using it. Available at your FLAPS.
--scott
If I need to go back into the door to tweak window fit etc. will it re-stick? That's why I tried the Permatex. I know that whatever VW uses for this app can be restuck. It almost feels like that snot-esque stuff that magazines use to glue in advertising flyers.
nate
You must be doing my least favorite thing. Installing the moisture barriers in the doors. Most of the OEMs of that era used an asphalt based material. Same basic stuff is available at Lowes as a crack sealant for driveways.
The problem is that it STINKS, just like the OEM stuff did.
So now the stuff they use is actually butyl tape, available at most glass shops, RV places, Mobile home stores.
Yup, I got a message from my friend that he has a '57 parts car coming with a "perfect" red interior, so now I need to think about such things.
I'm not sure what the adhesive used was, as it is mostly rock hard by now! But I was thinking that I'd use some heavy plastic, such that is sold in your local home emporium, rather than the original tar paper (as in tar-impregnated actual paper, e.g. about the weight of Kraft paper or construction paper, rather than what is normally referred to as "tar paper") material. I was also thinking that I'd seal up the holes in the door individually and then make a large sheet of plastic to completely cover the area behind the door panel, as seems to be common practice in modern vehicles.
Forgot to mention, I tried roofing tar too, and it actually dissolves the plastic!
Hmmm... see my last post. can I remove the plastic and replace it in the future if I have to, without having to buy more stuff? If so, that might be the solution.
nate
It's also available in clear.
Yep, tar paper was the original material. It handles the various temperatures, deadens sound, is waterproof and was CHEAP...
Then came the use of resin impregnated paper and now the current stuff is sheet vinyl.
Yup, it will. The difference is the crack sealer isn't as aggressive. But unless you're doing a 100% perfect restore AND plan on pulling the interior trim to show just how perfect, use the new stuff....
This IS the same stuff used today. Stays sticky and pliable. You apply it to the paper/plastic and stick it in place. If you need to remove it later just PULL and it will peel off of the metal (usually)
You've not seen my car. There ain't nothing original there save for the body, frame, and dashboard :) All the mechanical bits are from a '63 Super Hawk and I'm totally OK with that. Really, I'm just more concerned with preserving the cardboard backing of the door panels than anything else (although plan B would be to make new ones out of that plastic stuff that they use to line shower stalls, but if I don't have to, I'm totally OK with that.)
Sweet. have to see if I can find some of that. Thanks!
nate
Nate Nagel wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@news5.newsguy.com:
That sounds like 3M's "gummy glue". And that's actually what they call it. Gummy glue (also called snot glue or booger glue) is a hot-melt adhesive, so you need the gun that goes with it, which is pretty expensive.
But, you can buy gummy glue already formed into dots and strips, here:
No. It won't come loose. Not now, not ever, not for anything. You can try and cut it out but you'll damage the gasket.
--scott
3M Fastack trim adhesive
(which is basically race bike tubular tire cement in a cute red package)
The most amazing stuff I have found is Velcro glue. I have glued metal to plastic on the door trim and plastic to plastic, and it just works!
Sorry. Thought you meant plastic emblems, etc.
First off, I never did this, so I'm guessing. But I've glued a lot of stuff. IIRC, last time I used the 3M weatherstrip adhesive it was for something that wasn't meant to come loose. It's good stuff for the right app, but I don't think this it the right app. Others have mentioned "gummy stuff," which seems right. Silicone caulk actually sounds good for this, if it sticks to the materials. Set up is the biggest problem with it. But a razor separates it real quick, and once it's cut it the part can be pulled loose, and the silicone is easily shaved away.
--Vic
Perhaps some sort of good quality (brand name?, maybe 3M makes something like that) sticky back tape, sticky on both sides. cuhulin
You know a Studebaker V-8 is an easy swap in an older Jeep, yes?
nate
I used to work with a guy who carried a extra grand in his wallet just in case he came across a neglected Stude. He probably had 25 or 30 most of wich were nice after he had them a while. Had a few doners in the back yard. He had a couple of damn nice '53 Starlight coupes. I always wanted one of those for some reason. He also had a near perfect Golden Hawk that I think he was married to.
Lugnut
About 25 or 30 years ago, when I was South of where I live, out in the country side in a big field, I saw some old vehicles sitting out there.One of them was an early 1950s to mid 1950s Studebaker car.It might have been a Starlight Coupe.I like the old Studebaker cars that have the wrap around rear windows and venitian blinds.I haven't seen any Studebaker vehicles around town here in many, many years.Back in the
1960s, a friend of my brother owned a Studebaker Lark. cuhulin
Why not just buy a $10 hot melt glue gun at the local crafts shop or drugstore?
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