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Air compressor.

This morning, I removed the two plastic case halves of my light weight SpeedAire air compressor, Model 5F239-7 1

3/4 horsepower, 125 psi. It is a single piston air compressor.I discovered why it doesn't pump air.The air outlet port looks like a little arched doorway, 5/16'' wide by 7/16'' it is flat on the bottom.The flat part is part of the top of the cylinder block.There is an aluminum retangular shaped tube.One end of the tube is attatched to the air hose, the other end was attatched to the aluminum air compressor cylinder head and block (arched doorway air outlet port) with what looks to me like some sort of rubber material.That end of the aluminum rectangular shaped tube has a factory made crimp in it very near the end of the aluminum tube.

I am trying to figure out how I can repair my air compressor and get it working again.I was wonder if I buy some two part self vulcanizing rubber and put on there, if that will work ok? or perhaps some Permatex, either self hardening, or Permatex that stays pliable? I have some J-B Weld, that might work.I was also thinking about doing away with the piece of rectangular shaped aluminum tubing and use a short (but not too short) piece of copper tube, or one of those brass tubes which has some barbs on it. I appreciate any suggestions of how I can/should repair my air compressor. Will I ever get it working again? Does the Lord love a Duck? cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin
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Is there a reed valve inside that port somewhere? If so, pay attention to it.

For something like this, I think I would try blue RTV silicone first. And let it cure for several days. If it isnt strong enough to hold, you can go to JB Weld later.

Reply to
hls

Of course there is a gasket between the block and the cylinder head, a rather thick gasket.Four hex head bolts connect the cylinder head to the block.The bottom flat part of the arched doorway air outlet port is actually part of the top of the gasket.I haven't removed the cylinder head yet.Maybe I can dig out all of the original factory rubber material with a sharp pointy knife.

When I went to the Lowe's store today, one of the things I bought is a brass 1/4'' OD x 1/8'' MIP w/isert.It is brass and has a little tube that that is flared on one end and has a compression nut which screws on there.I won't need the little flared tube and the compression nut.Maybe I can use the brass 1/4'' OD piece.I am not in a big hurry to get my air compressor working.I want to think it through some more before I decide what to try out first. Where there is a will, there is a way. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

Red RTV. I've not used *any* of the lousy blue RTV since I found the red. Higher temperature tolerance, better flow, adhesion, etc.

Reply to
Pete C.

Good tip..Thanks. I worked a lot with blue earlier on, and it is really good if you know how to apply it. Will try the red next time...any tips?

Reply to
hls

No tips, I just find the red to have a better consistency so it flows smoother and handles better. The higher temp tolerance is nice as well. Heck they hold half a jet engine together with red RTV, though I expect a higher grade version than you find in an auto parts store.

Reply to
Pete C.

Is that Permatex Red RTV? I might try that, I guess the auto parts stores sell it.The little brass tube piece with threads on both ends that I bought at the Lowe's store today, it is just a little bit too large in outside diameter to fit in the air outlet port.I can file the threads down, that will still offer some ''tooth'' for the RTV, or whatever I decide to use. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

RTV is a term for silicone polymers which means "room temperature vulcanizing". In other words, it will cure at room temperature....BUT

it will not necessarily cure as quickly as it says on the package. Sometimes they recommend letting it "skin over", or they may say it will cure in 1-3 hours. If you are laying it on thick, or are using it in a cooling system, DONT COUNT ON IT.

Ideally they may cure this quickly, but in difficult situations they will not. Leave them as long as you can...up to 2-3 days....if you want a tough and very durable seal.

Reply to
hls

So, I am back to working on my light weight SpeedAire air compressor again.I bought a brass pipe which has threads on both ends of the pipe,

3/8'' outside diameter, 1/4'' inside diameter.The pipe is a little too large in OD to fit inside of the little arched doorway air outlet port.I started filing down the threads so I can make it fit.Now I am thinking I will remove the cylinder head.That way, I can easily remove all of the rest of the factory rubber gunk which had the rectangular aluminum tube connected to the air outlet port and also I think I will enlarge the outlet port with a file.I already have some J-B Weld.When I start putting it all back together, I will use J-B Weld.If that wont hold the brass pipe in there, I don't know what will. On the rear of the motor fan blade, it says, Assembled in Mexico March 25 1993.That date (1993) has to be a mistake.I definetly remember I paid a guy $20.00 for my SpeedAire air compressor back in the 1970s, nobody else has owned that air compressor or has had access to it since I bought it from him but me.He had an ad in the local newspaper about some tools for sale.I am going to tape a note on one of the plastic case halves to oil the motor bearings/bushings before I put it all back together.

When I get it all put back together, I will leave it alone for a week or two.Then I will put the air hose on the brass pipe and try it out.I think it will last a long time with that J-B Weld on there.Better than assembled in Mexico. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

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