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Air Conditioning repair.

Last year the air conditioning in my car stopped blowing cold air. A/C compressor clutch would not engage unless I jumpered the pressure switch, and even then the air was not cold. I dumped in a can of DuraCool and the cold air was restored for about a day or so.

Car is a 1993 Madza 626 ES. V6 engine. R12 A/C system.

I'm considering doing the A/C repairs myself and I was wondering if there is anything in particular that I need to pay special attention to.

I know that a new dryer should be installed. I also know that I should be sure to evacuate the system properly before recharging to draw any air out of the system. Beyond that it looks simply like plumbing to me... find the leak and replace/repair. I am considering pulling open any connection and replacing the O-rings as well.

I plan on refilling with DuraCool to avoid having to retrofit to R134a or the cost/hassle of R12. I was wondering if Duracool is anything more than a measured amount of propane, and if BBQ propane, etc. would work just as well.

Any comments? Any hints at how I can identify my leaks?

Reply to
Noozer
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Also wanted to know if having the system evacuated is going to be affected since there is now DuraCool in my A/C system.

Reply to
Noozer

You are asking for problems. Why would you want to put a flammable gas under pressure that circulates thru the cabin of your vehicle? Does this not concern you or the people riding in the car? It sounds like you need to take it to someone who can fixe it right. Why would you not retrofit to 134a the first time. I can understand not wanting to spend the money on r12, but r134 is not expensive.

Reply to
jfrancis311

Anyone worth having do the work is going to use a refrigerant identifier before performing any service. Once identified as been filled with a HC, anyone worth having do the work is going to stop right there and refuse to continue. Personally, I'd give you at least six seconds to get the vehicle off my business property.

Reply to
aarcuda69062

Actually R12 is not that expensive at this time and it will work quite a bit better than anything else. Last time somebody tried to sell me R12 the price had gone down. I have plenty so didn't buy any.

Don

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Reply to
Don

I retrofitted to R134a, and it works apparently as well as R12. Retrofit cost was not too bad, as I already had to replace the compressor.

I didnt want to screw around with R12 any longer, and am glad I made that decision.

Reply to
<HLS

There is a lot of controversy over hydrocarbon refrigerants as a search of web and Usenet will show. However, one thing that just about everyone agrees on -- if you install anything but R12 or R134a in your car's A/C system, you are committing to servicing it yourself in perpetuity since no shop will be willing to touch it. (BTW, there are non-flammable alternatives available also, such as "Autofrost" R-406a. But you still are unlikely to find a shop willing to work with such niche products.)

Reply to
Roger Blake

If necessary, I can pull the whole A/C system out of the car and replace it without any problem.

What I DON'T know is what to do afterwards. I'm all for taking it someplace to have it evacuated and charged properly with R12 or R134a, but not if their going to charge me $100 an ounce (or whatever the going rate is). I also don't know if the oils in R134a will work well with the oils from the R12.

I want to identify the leak(s) myself, then replace all the O-rings and the dryer. Once that's done pull a vacuum and recharge. If it's reasonable to have someone else do it, that's great, but I'm not paying someone $100/hr just to suck and blow.

Last time I took a car to a shop for A/C issues, the guy walked out to the car (didn't even pull the car into the garage), waved his sniffer around and then tried to charge me $50 for those 90 second or so.

Reply to
Noozer

Check out this site:

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Go to the A/C Questions and Opinions section.

One of the more helpful automotive forums I've run across.

Reply to
M.M.

You should be able to salvage most of the hard parts of the system. Open the system and flush it with solvent. Then replace ALL the O-Rings with

134A compatible ones. Replace the drier with a 134A unit and flush the compressor VERY well. Replace the rubber lines with 134A compatibles that have the correct fittings. Connect it all up and draw a vacuum on it and see what you get. If it will hold a vacuum then you could take it in and have a shop charge it with 134A or use a set of gauges and charge it yourself using the pressures chart.

It has been illegal since July 13, 1995 to replace CFC-12 with the HC-12a® formulation that was submitted for SNAP review in any refrigeration or A/C application other than industrial process refrigeration. The same prohibition for OZ-12® took effect on April 18,

1994. Because DURACOOL 12a® has the same chemical composition as the HC-12a® formulation that was submitted for SNAP review (i.e., Hydrocarbon Blend B), DURACOOL 12a® is also subject to the same restrictions."

Have you ever read the story about the Australian guy who was pushing for refrigerants like duracool to be made legal because they were totally safe? He managed to blow himself and a major backer up when he was demonstrating how safe they were?

Reply to
Steve W.

Why read when you can watch the movie?

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Reply to
aarcuda69062

SNIP

Nice Video!

The point has been proven without a doubt in my mind. HC refrigerant is capable of blowing you up.

Reply to
anumber1

Point made... I'm still hoping to be able to repair the A/C on the cheap. The car is a '93 and not worth spending a lot on. It is reliable though and I hope to keep it a few more years.

BTW... I'm in Calgary, Canada... Anyone in the group able to help me out?

: )

Reply to
Noozer

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