Aluminum rim sealing.

Bob Urz wrote in news:1125948344 snipped-for-privacy@spool6-east.superfeed.net:

It may be more than the bead that is leaking. Cast aluminum/ magnesium alloys are somewhat porous and prone to leakage. It used to be common practice to seal the inside of rims with clear lacquer. I think makers are using a plastic polymer product now, but I see no reason the old methods wouldn't work for DIY. Clean and re-seal, should be good for another 5 years.

Do you know where the leaks are?

Before fixing the rims, be sure to check the stems for a good seal to the rim, lack of cracking around the base and a correctly functioning valve.

The particular one i am working on now is off my taurus. It was holding air fine until a nail got it. I put a patch on the inside and lightly sanded off the bead rims before putting it back on. I used a manual harbor freight tire machine to do it. It seems to be leaking less now, but still a very slow leak.

Now, my 96 S10 aluminum rims seems to only leak when it cold outside. I have not broke them down yet. Trying to get a plan first. I really did not want to put the sealer down the valve stem route.

Bob

Bob

>

Put a tube in it and all those problems will be gone.

suggested

Try to track down where the leak is by putting the wheel with fully inflated tire in a water tank. Soap can stop tiny leaks for a while, but don't expect a permanent fix. A varnish like product is not a good idea because it will harden and crack.

If the Harbor Freight tire machine is a cheaply designed model, then it could have very well scored the inside rim. Check the inside very carefully. Also, try rotating the tire to a new position on the rim.

Bob Urz wrote:

What a steaming pile of shit. I've used this method COUNTLESS times, mainly due to bad bead sealing or side wall punctures, over the decades (including nearly new tires) with the tires successfully used until cord was showing.

I use Permatex silicone sealant, not as toxic and more enviro friendly than others, and mos timportant it does what advertised for: SEALS Slime is asuch garbage lord!!!! I CURSED THE DAY I BOUGHT THIS THING CLAIMING TO FIX TIRES, IN FACT I DID FIX TIRE... WITH PERMATEX 9SIMILAR TO

3M SILICONE SEALANT, BLACK) AND ALSO THEIR MORE EXPENSIVE OEM/PROFESSIONAL VERSION GASKET MAKER BLACK, UNLIKE SLIME. SLIME WAS WHITE, LOOKED NASTY!! AFTER DRYING IT... DRIED OUT OR SOMETHING, IT DISAPPEARED I DONT KNOW WHY, THE HOLE WAS COVERED WITH THINN LAYER NO MATTER HO WMUCH DAMN PASTE I APPLIED IT DRIED AN DAGAIN LOOKS LIKE GARBAGE

SO FO RME PERMATEX AND 3M, ONE OR BOTH

aRE YOU gAY?

No. Sorry to disappoint an obviously lonely, Prodigy queen dipshit from Brooklyn searching newsgroups for a date.

Related to Judy Diarrhea by any chance?

nate

Probably related to the miscreants in Westminster, Mass, I'd say.

Late 80's Mustangs had a problem with porous wheels. They used some kind of soft paint to seal them. Sorry, I have no idea what it is, but it's light gray.

Al

Some wheel refinishing shops offer a leak repair service. Check the Yellow Pages under Wheels. Dan

(This account is not used for email.)

If the problem is old dried out tires, spray the bead with a vinyl treatment, such as Armor All. Softening the rubber tightens the bead seal, if that doesn't work, remove the tire, mostly deflate it, and step on bead as you apply treatment, this lets treatment penetrate bead, reinflate + reinstall. If that doesn't work, go for the paint job, and bead sealer.

they make a special product called bead sealer. Most pro tire shop have a can of this stuff by their tire changer. It almost like a rubber cement. Grey Products is one of many manufactures of this product. Also the work invovled to break a automotive tire bead is well worth the money to have a shop do it with the right equipment. You should lso rebalance your tires after this done. Good Luck.