Auto Paint Stripping help !!!

There's always brake fluid... That lifts paint REAL good.

Well, OK, more seriously... I'm sure that there's a product that works in a manner similar to brake fluid, but is actually intended for the task. Unfortunately, I don't know what it's called, or who sells it.

Another option would be to rent a sandblaster (don't forget your filter hood - breathing silica dust and powdered paint isn't the world's greatest idea for health and long life) and shoot the whole car. That'll take you down to bare metal pretty fast, and leave a nice primer-grabbing surface, once you've gone over it with a tack-cloth for dust. It might not need saying, but I'll say it anyway: Make certain to mask off the glass in the area you're working on. (Assuming it has glass installed, that is - From the sound of what you're planning, it's possible that it either doesn't yet, or won't when the stripping gets done)

||Hi everyone..I have an auto paint stripping question and am hoping ||someone can point me in the right direction. I bought a 67 RS Camaro ||and am beginning to work on it. It has several layers of paint on it ||and I want to get it down to metal or so I can at least see what lurks ||underneath. I am replacing the fenders, hood and most of the nose so ||I mainly worried about the rear quarter panels. I was informed that ||they have had metal work done and they look great except for the ||backyard paint job the kid gave it a couple years back. I don't want ||to ruin the bodywork on the quarters becase whatever was done looks ||perfect. The paint is peeling and chipping and I want to get it off ||so there is a firmer foundation to work with. I have read as many ||threads on this topic but I cant seem to find out which is best so I ||don't ruin what body work is done already. I would like to do as much ||as I can labor wise to cut costs before I take it to a shop to finish. || Any advice, methods, products that you can recommend would be greatly ||appreciated. I am a novice but am willing to work at it and am seeking ||advice so I dont create more work. || ||Thanks ||Gary

Rex in Fort Worth

Never EVER sandblast automotive sheet metal to remove paint. It will never be smooth again- sandblasting causes local heating that warps and wrinkles the sheet metal. Media blasting can be used ($$$), but NEVER sandblasting.

Thanks everyone. I am going to try the stripper in small sections at a time and take it from there. As soon as I feel I am doing more bad then good then I will have to pay to have it done right. I figured if I can do most of the grunt labor work myself I could invest what I might save into someone doing pro bodywork and paint. I cant stant the way spackle looks on a wall when not done right, if it were that way on my car it would eat me up.

Thanks again Gary

IF you really want a nice job have the body dipped to strip off everything. Then go from there. IF the bodywork was properly done by welding in new quarters and light glazing for dings, you would have MUCH less work in the long run and you will know what is really there. If on the other hand the bodywork is bondo and window screen it won't last long anyway so just shoot a cheap paint job on it and wait a year or two, it WILL fail.

Talstrip, comes in 1 gallon cans, runs around $35/gallon, and worth every penny. Follow the instructions to the letter, paint will be gone to metal, almost no manual labor involved. Warning, this is methylene chloride, also known generically as "aircraft stripper" although the Talstrip formulation is quite a bit different than most MC strippers. Talstrip dries to flakes that flake off with a putty knife.

JazzMan

Thanks alot!

Gary