OK.... in the ongoing saga of my water pump replacement I found out the Sears Hardware no longer sells stud extractors (or at least the one close by to me doesn't sell them).
Searched online and found 3 alternatives.... the old fashioned offset cam, one that looks like a deep well socket and the ones they advertise on TV that look like black sockets with a fairly sharp, and aggressive, "blade" that's suppose to bite into the stud/bolt...
Which one is "best"?
I have normally used a whole mess of good penetrating oil first in several applications, then if it fits a plumber's pipe wrench. It grabs harder as you pull harder unlike vise grips that lock.
I have never needed or had much use for the 'fancy' extractors. If the part is rusty/rotted, they bottom out usually so just skin it thinner.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >left handed drill bits...they really work great mac man should have them
I'm sorry to hear about that. There seems to be a lot they dont sell anymore.
I use a small pipewrench when I have enough of the broken bolt showing that I can get on it securely. I have used the type where you drill a hole and thread in the easyout...if you break one of those in the hole, you have doubled your work in trying to get that crap straightened out.
I just saw in a Popular Mechanics magazine a new design of removal tools. I threw the book away after I read it, but -of course - they were saying what a step forward this tool is. Might be worth a look.
Stud extractors, been there, done that, snapped it off in the bolt. Bloody hell, are those things hard...
I remember seeing, a long time ago in England, an alternative extractor tool. It was basically a high-speed metal drill bit, but "reversed" - ie it drilled counter clockwise, providing you had a reversible drill handy.
I think the theory was that the heat from dilling and the anti-clockwise torque would loosen and unscrew the stud. Never tried one - but does it ring any bells?
Cheers
Tim (in the UK)
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