The jar-and-tubing method requires more coordination, and/or more pushups and situps, than I can muster. I use a handheld vacuum pump called the Mityvac
formatting link
It comes with a nicebooklet describing other diagnostic and repair procedures you can dowith the thing.
I also like to use it to carefully remove any sediment from the bottom of the master-cylinder reservoir before beginning, rather than suck that crud down through the rest of the system.
Some authorities differ on the order in which you address the different wheels, depending perhaps on the car and whether its brakes are split front-rear or diagonally.
The concerns about bleeding the master cylinder if you've emptied or replaced it, and replenishing its fluid often enough to avoid running it dry (in which case you have to bleed it and start over) are still applicable of course.
I don't think this varies between assisted and non-assisted brakes. If you have antilock brakes, though, refer to the shop manual for any different or additional procedures.
You're supposed to capture the used brake fluid and take it down to the local household hazmat facilities, rather than dumping it or mixing it with recyclable chemicals. It's supposed to be contaminated with heavy metals, making it less innocuous in detailed reality than its basic chemistry might lead you to believe.
Wear rubber gloves, and as with any undercar work, wear safety glasses. Also, move carefully and deploy old rags strategically so as to avoid getting either new or old brake fluid on your paint job -- especially lacquers!
Cheers,
--Joe