Bondo '91 Accord, round 2!

Last time I bondo repaired my 91 accord the rust started coming through within a couple months, nothing big but Im on a budget and im a perfectionist. So this time unlike lastime I forgot to seal the bondo with a water retardent glaze. I know eventually the rust will come back for sure, but I was wondering if it would last alot longer this time? Since bondo is a death wish when mixed with water.

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat
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Repairing rust is always an issue. Bondo is not the problem.

If you want it to last, you have to have the metal clean clean clean. Surface prep is a key. Plastic filler is okay, but you cant put it on cancerous surfaces and hope it will last.

Reply to
<HLS

My bad...... typo. This time I put a water proof finish over the bondo so it doesnt absorb water and become soft liek last time. Unlike last time where I just put 1 coat of crappy canadian tire paint.

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

Get it clean. THEN, put some of the Locktite rust inhibitor on it, just in case it's got something you missed.

--scott

Reply to
Scott Dorsey

Since Im on a budget and I have temporarely lost my licence, due to something rather stupid, I can only use the products I have available. Apparently antifreeze works as a rust inhibitor, if so should I go and dilute it just so its not rather harsh? (my room mate has around 10 jugs lying around in the garage, so it would be reletively cheap and easy)

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

Bondo brand fillers are an issue. They just suck. Evercoat stuff is far superior.

Reply to
Brent P

Not a great move,

Reply to
<HLS

I get good results by cleaning with a wire brush and a grinder wheel on a drill, then patching with fibreglass cloth and polyester resin, and filling with household epoxy resin or polyester resin mixed with talum powder or chopped fibre. I believe Bondo is similar, ie. polyester resin with some kind of filler. Epoxy is more moisture resistant and adheres better than polyester. I mix a drop or two at a time and spread thin with a toothpick. I've used liquid rust treatment sometimes, sometimes not. Rust inhibiting paint from the hardware sgtore is the first, or "colour" coat, then polyurethane. It's not a really good colour match but it lasts me about 5 years. You can buy spray cans of paint which are colour coded to match the car for a better colour match. I drive a 1989 Ford Festiva which I purchased new. I drive it in Ottawa where rust is a problem.

Rust normally comes from the inside. I spray oil around behind th rust holes to retard it from comming back. Every fall I oil the underside and spray as much as possible into the doors, hood, tunk lid, side panels, etc. Pull the little rubber plugs in the body, spray oil, put the plugs back. If you can get one of those oil cans with a trigger, or a houseplant prayer, they work well. If you change your own oil, used oil is good.

Reply to
Wm Watt

"*" wrote in news:01c73328$2a5a0700$1591c3d8@race:

If the OP's rust is where I think it is, it's coming from the INSIDE. "Patch" repairs will fail utterly within one winter no matter what materials are used.

I'll bet the rust is at either end of the rear wheel wells, the worst spots on all Hondas. Frequently the rear bumper ends fall off their mounts at the wheel well. The rocker panels also dissolve starting at the rear wheel well.

For vehicles like this, it is not economic to do a proper rust repair unless the rest of the car is in absolutely superb condition.

Reply to
Tegger

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

Look, brat...There is nothing wrong with Bondo. But forget that shit about old antifreeze and other urban legends. That is ignorance in action.

You have to have the metal clean down to the very bright steel. There are coatings you can apply, but antifreeze is bullshit.

Clean CLean CLEAN...

If you are left with lace instead of metal, you may have to cut away the old crap, and weld in new.

The bare metal surface must be passivated with something like chromate preparations, rust convertors, or similar. Forget that antifreeze bullshit.

If you get it clean and passivated, and if you use a plastic filler, like Bondo, properly, you can get a decent fix.

Reply to
<HLS

wrote in news:4rAoh.3979$ji1.602 @newssvr12.news.prodigy.net:

A-MEN brother! Can't fix something that's still got rust in it, however little!

Naval Jelly (the pink stuff) is cheap, readily available and works excellently to neutralize rust, but you must make certain to get right to the bottom of the rust, which means lots of cutting and sanding. Plus you MUST use zinc primer before painting.

However, all the foregoing means nothing if the INSIDE remains unprotected...

Canada has a number of distinctly desirable features, such as uncrowded roads, relatively cheap gas, a stable economy and political climate, vast empty spaces, and close proximity to the United States. Another desirable feature is its invention and marketing of a particular type of spectacularly effective rustproofing, which appears to be unknown anywhere else in the rusty world. This rustproofing would have entirely prevented the OP's problem in the first place.

Reply to
Tegger

Bondo does not "become soft" However it also is NOT made for repairing rust holes. It is made to smooth out MINOR imperfections on surfaces.

To repair rust you grind or cut back to good steel, weld in new steel, then grind it smooth and fill/sand until it is correct. Then you prime it with a good primer and sand it then paint it with a good paint. Seal the back side of the panel and it will last as long as the original steel.

Reply to
Steve W.

Hell, I used to drive an MGB that was MADE of Bondo.

--scott

Reply to
Scott Dorsey

For quality bodywork, it is always best to repair the bent or rusted metal and to use as little filler as possible to smooth out the imperfections, exactly as you say.

Bondo, or similar products, when applied properly can cover some pretty big imperfections. If not catalyzed properly, applied properly, and cured properly, time it its enemy. Most people dont keep cars long enough to rue a Bondo job if it is done well.

Reply to
<HLS

omg, this is too funny. You've got a rusty beater you're patching together with bondo and varnish dude. Face the facts. It's ok, just throw in the towel.

My olde Jimmy was like your honda. Parts of the quarter panel FELL OFF. I sold the doors when I scrapped it and was able to remove the driver's door without tools because the hinges PULLED off the body.

Rust is evil and almost impossible to beat, and definitely impossible to beat on a $5 bondo budget.

Ray

Reply to
Ray

Astutely articulated...perfect!

Reply to
<HLS

Reply to
the_lower_class_brat

I'll give it a week before it falls off. Less if it gets driven.

It is really simple. if you don't have the money to buy the correct materials STOP SCREWING WITH IT! Save up some money and get the correct stuff. Then at the very least buy a book about body work. Otherwise give up.

Reply to
Steve W.

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