I put front and rear brakes on my toyota rav my wife tell me she has to put more pressure to stop and the front pads smell like they are heating up I did put ceramic pads on front and back the brake pedal is not the same bef ore I changed the pads, need more pressure to stop
Pads *and* rotors? They wear together, and if you only change one, it takes a LONG time for them to wear to the same relative "flatness" as each other.
Did you "bed" them in before letting her drive? Usually consists of getting up to 45-50 MPH, then braking semi-hard, enough to bring the car *almost* to a stop in about 5 seconds. (Find a nice quiet backroad if you can. Try not to do it in traffic or on the freeway). Repeat several times until they start to feel normal enough to be safe. Try not to overheat them, but they will smell like hot brakes while doing this. Take a few laps to let them cool down afterwards.
When I change my own brakes, even after doing the bed-in process, sometimes it takes a week or so before they feel exactly like the did with the old parts. Just takes time for the rough pads and rough rotors to smoooooooth out and match each other.
Pads only? From the description I would say that you have a sticking caliper and need to at least scuff or cut the rotors to allow the pads to seat.
On Sunday, October 9, 2016 at 2:44:56 PM UTC-10, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote :
ut more pressure to stop and the front pads smell like they are heating up I did put ceramic pads on front and back the brake pedal is not the same b efore I changed the pads, need more pressure to stop
If you upgraded to ceramic pads from a softer material, it might require mo re pressure to stop. That's normal. Some smell might be normal too - initia lly. If you're worried about the caliper pistons being stuck, jack the whee ls up and make sure the pads aren't binding. Give the brake pedal a nice fi rm push first.
Buy brakes from
WorkStaff 360 snipped-for-privacy@workstaff360.com wrote
Given how few pad manufacturers there are, the price and location you buy brake pads from is completely meaningless in terms of performance.
What matters most (other than fitment) are the hot and cold coefficients.
What are the friction coefficients of the pads you put on the vehicle? And what are the OEM hot/cold friction coefficients to compare against?
Every passenger vehicle brake pad sold in the United States must (by law) say on the pads/package what the friction coefficients are.
The main rule is never buy a pad with a lower friction coefficient than OEM where hot/cold friction is the fundamental decision metric.
The non-measureable situation-specific fluff is whether or not they put a grain of sand in the mix so they could advertise it as "ceramic" or whether or not they put an atom of copper in the mix so they could advertise it as "metallic" or whether or not the epoxy will dust a black color or tan, etc.
NOTE: All brake pads dust (where do you think the pad goes?). What matters is the color of the dust (and whether it sticks or blows off).
Same with noise. All pads make noise - but you care about "loud noises" which is vibration specific and very often fitment specific (e.g., springs & plates, etc.).
But if the pad has the wrong coefficient of friction for your needs, then it's the wrong pad - so it's the first thing (after fitment) you look for.
If you don't know the answer - then you have no business discussing anything else as it's like caring about the color of your girlfriend's hair (which is something you think about well after the essentials are covered).
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