Burnt engine valve

I have a '99 Honda Accord with 104k miles and my car was vibrating violently. My mechanic told me I have a burnt engine valve. Anyone have this before?? How much did it cost to replace??

Reply to
siegal
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Of course, we have seen lots of burned valves. Do you have a V6 or an L4 engine?

When the valve burns, it no longer seals as it should, and the cylinder stop delivering power. The fewer the number of cylinders, normally, the more violent is the shaking.

You had better ask your mechanic of choice what he will charge to fix it. Know before you say go.

He will have to remove the heads or head, replace the burned or damaged valves, machine the valve seats, replace the head(s) using new gaskets, etc. It isn't a 30 minute job.

He may also recommend that you replace tensioners, timing belt, etc.

I have seen dealerships charge $2200 for a V8. This was excessive, under the circumstances. A 4 cylinder should be cheaper than a 6, which should be somewhat cheaper than an 8 cylinder. But you should probably be looking at $500-$750 ROUGHLY. Maybe more.

Reply to
<HLS

Thanks.

I have a 4 cylinder. I guess my car was running on 3 cylinders. I ask the guy I brought it to how much he thought this would cost and he told me he wouldn't know until he opens up the engine. He then said that an average fix is around $800, but again he wouldn't know until he's into it. Gotta love being at the mercy of the mechanic?!?

Everyone seems pretty surprised this is happening to an accord with only 104k miles.

Reply to
siegal

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Reply to
William R. Watt

----- Original Message ----- From: Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2005 8:46 PM Subject: Re: Burnt engine valve

Did you ever have the valve clerances checked? As surprising as this might seem, you engine doesn't have hydralic valve lifters (lash adjsuters). See:

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Regards,

Ed White

Reply to
C. E. White

Really good point. If the valves were not adjusted properly in the past, that is one mode for failure. It can cause the valves to burn prematurely.

It doesn't just apply to solid lifters either.

I worked on a fairly new Ford Fairlane some years ago. Less than 30,000 miles, as I remember, and it had no power at all. When I pulled the heads, 14 of the 16 valves were burned beyond recovery. It was confusing why it should have happened like this. I had the heads reworked and replaced the valves, and buttoned her up. I carefully adjusted the hydraulics (it was a 289). I kept up with that car and it lasted for YEARS with no problems.

Reply to
<HLS

"Some" years indeed :-) (I can say that because I'm probably as old as you are...)

The valve adjustment tolerances for hydraulic lifters are pretty sloppy, because all you have to really do is get them in the zone where the hydraulic adjuster can work. But by the same token, its really easy to crank down too far so that the lifter bottoms out and the valves hang open slightly without knowing you've done it. Don't ask me how I know... but lets just say that I once owned a Ford 289 and being a Mopar guy wh was used to shaft-mounted rockers.... :-/

What really amazes me about your story is that it appears the *intake* valves were burned also!?!? When that happens, the car is usually un-driveable because of all the backfiring from flame getting into the intake manifold.

Reply to
Steve

I dont think there is anyone, outside Bible stories, older than I.

Yes, that Furd was burned up. I couldn't believe it when I saw it. It would barely pull into the stall. And it was new enough that it had to have come from the factory like that.

Just a couple of years ago, I helped my son put a new block in his Chevy Blazer (an entirely OTHER story), and when he got to the part where he was adjusting the valves, he did it just by his plenty fine book, but it wouldn't run right at all. He went over it and over it, but it just started dying when he pulled it down according to the 'turns' specs. The valves were staying off the seat.

I finally convinced him to take the slack out and get it running quietly. Then we went around each valve, tightened it until it started to miss (staying open), loosened it until it started missing again (staying closed), and then split the difference. This seemed to be a safe way to do it, and it ran just fine.

Reply to
<HLS

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