Checking belt alignment

I have an intermittent noise in my wife's 2007 Ford Escape. I am looking for an easy and accurate way to check pulley alignment on the serpentine belt system. (Preferably without purchasing an expensive tool).

I have read about garages using lasers to check them. (Of course it is an expensive tool that has to be purchased.)

Could a person somehow use a simple laser pointer? The other problem is the tight quarters, it is a sideways front wheel drive four cylinder, so it is hard to get to.

The noise is a kind of rattle/squeal that is pronounced when the ac is on. I put a new belt on it sometime agao and the problem went away. However it came back.

Visually I cant really tell that the belt is running untrue but again it is hard to look at.

Spinning everything by hand there does not seem to be excessive play. I sis note I could hear the alternator when I spun it by hand. I am not sure if this is normal or not.

As always I appreciate it!

Reply to
stryped1
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The 2 most likely culprits would be the idler (undriven pulley) and the belt-tensioner). Please note: I'm a weekend mechanic and no expert! You can usually see the tensioner vibrate when it's bad!

Reply to
Bob Villa

I replaced both of those this weekend.

Reply to
stryped1

The way most vehicles are built now there is not a problem with the alignment of the belt. Also what you hear doesn't sound like alignment, if it was the sound would be constant as the belt always follows the same path. Rattle/squeal sounds like a bad bearing on an accessory or idler.

Go buy a mechanics stethoscope and use it to listen to the various bearings. A good bearing will spin without a lot of noise, it will sound like a nice steady breeze. A bad bearing will sound like you're driving on a gravel road, rough and noisy.

If you can spin the alternator easily and it makes noise the bearings are probably dry and starting to fail. That is true for most of the bearings on the accessory drive as well.

Reply to
Steve W.

I have a stethoscope and did listen. The alternator was loud, everything else was much quieter... Everything spun easily.

There was black stuff in the power steering reservoir. What would that be? It turned all the fluid gray/black.

Reply to
stryped1

But you didn't state that...and you're very welcome also!

Reply to
Bob Villa

Probably the bearings are dry. You could use a needle and inject a bit of high temp grease in them, Would probably make it last 2-3 years longer if the bearings are not scored.

Black in the PS could be deteriorated hoses or someone added some type of sealer/conditioner. Disconnect the return line and add fresh fluid with the engine running to flush it out.

Look over the belt close, and the tops of the sheaves. I've had belts that looked good but they were worn enough that the ribs were not actually driving the pulley, it was riding on the top of the sheave. The ribs on the belts should also not be V shaped they should be closer to a U, the sides are supposed to do the work.

Reply to
Steve W.

Where would anyone get information like this? Thanks Steve...never knew this!

Reply to
Bob Villa

You don't need no stinkin' lasers. Take the belt off and rotate and rock sideways all the pulleys by hand to check for worn bearings. My guess is that it's the AC compressor. There's no problem with the belt alignment.

Reply to
dsi1

I already did that. The best I could tell there is no excessive play.

Reply to
stryped1

It would be logical to assume the problem is coming from the AC compressor. I don't know how you would test for that. I think if you get a sort of a funky rattling noise when you turn on the AC, that would be a pretty good sign of the problem.

Reply to
dsi1

That is my initial thought. But it is not consistent and spinning the pulle y by hand I cant tell that there is any noise or excessive wobble. I would just replace it but the air is working well and if replacing it I would hav e to evacuate, flush the system put new seals in etc. (I know I would not " have" to but it would be stupid not to if replacing the compressor.) Plus, the only compressor I could probably afford would come from autozone and fo r whatever reason it seems I only get a year or two of life out of them.

I thought about replacing just the clutch/pulley but have never done that. They are 90 bucks at autozone but a whole compressor with clutch and pully is 149. Plus, I would guess it could be a bad bearing inside the compressor which a clutch and pulley would not fix. (Although I don't really hear or see anything when spinning by hand).

I am seriously debating replacing the power steering pump with an autozone rebuilt unit. This is based on finding the black fluid in the reservoir and feeling what I am wondering is excessive vibration on the small line attac hed to the reservoir. I am not crazy about autozone stuff but do you think I would be alright with a reman pump from there on the main family vehicle? I think a new pump from Amazon that says motorcraft on it is 250. the auto zone without the pulley is 50 with a lifetime warrenty. (If I knew the pump was bad I would probably buy the motorcraft). Is there a way to tell if a pump is bad if it spins by hand okay? I will also say at idle I can feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel and can barely hear a "whine" which I think is coming from the pump. Ironically, I disconnected the reservoir a nd started the car to drain the fluid. The noise and vibration in the steer ing wheel ceased.

I actually think I have multiple things going on and that the ac problem is separate from the vibration I felt/heard in the steering wheel.

One other thing, I read Escapes had problems with the front passanger side motor mounts. Not sure if it included the 2007. I felt around on it with th e engine running the other day but could not think of a good way to check i t. This sounds stupid, but it crossed my mind of connecting a continuity te ster on it to see if somewhere metal was touching metal. I will say when fe eling around on the rubber last night it "felt" okay.

As always I appreciate the advice and help!

Reply to
stryped1

If the clutch feels fine, it's probably OK. I'd just live with a noisy AC pump if it's working although that could be signs that it's going to fail. If the noise gets worse, you probably should stop using the AC cause it would be a real bitch if the pump locked up.

I don't know anything about rebuilt pumps nor have I replaced one before. If you don't mind purging the refrigerant into the air you probably could replace it yourself. You'll need a vacuum pump to remove water vapor from the system before adding the refrigerant. You'll also need to replace the filter/drier. You might need to flush the oil out of the system but maybe not. Well, that's the way I'd do it anyway.

Reply to
dsi1

ulley by hand I cant tell that there is any noise or excessive wobble. I wo uld just replace it but the air is working well and if replacing it I would have to evacuate, flush the system put new seals in etc. (I know I would n ot "have" to but it would be stupid not to if replacing the compressor.) Pl us, the only compressor I could probably afford would come from autozone an d for whatever reason it seems I only get a year or two of life out of them .

at. They are 90 bucks at autozone but a whole compressor with clutch and pu lly is 149. Plus, I would guess it could be a bad bearing inside the compre ssor which a clutch and pulley would not fix. (Although I don't really hear or see anything when spinning by hand).

one rebuilt unit. This is based on finding the black fluid in the reservoir and feeling what I am wondering is excessive vibration on the small line a ttached to the reservoir. I am not crazy about autozone stuff but do you th ink I would be alright with a reman pump from there on the main family vehi cle? I think a new pump from Amazon that says motorcraft on it is 250. the autozone without the pulley is 50 with a lifetime warrenty. (If I knew the pump was bad I would probably buy the motorcraft). Is there a way to tell i f a pump is bad if it spins by hand okay? I will also say at idle I can fee l a slight vibration in the steering wheel and can barely hear a "whine" wh ich I think is coming from the pump. Ironically, I disconnected the reservo ir and started the car to drain the fluid. The noise and vibration in the s teering wheel ceased.

m is separate from the vibration I felt/heard in the steering wheel.

ide motor mounts. Not sure if it included the 2007. I felt around on it wit h the engine running the other day but could not think of a good way to che ck it. This sounds stupid, but it crossed my mind of connecting a continuit y tester on it to see if somewhere metal was touching metal. I will say whe n feeling around on the rubber last night it "felt" okay.

Its just embarrassing for my wife. She has to turn the air off when the car is going slow like through a drive through. Also, when starting it for the first time in a parking lot or something.

Reply to
stryped1

The compressor puts strain additional strain on all the belt pulleys. The most likely "rattling" source is the tensioner. But I had a water pump that mimicked a rod knock. It was a relief to get the stethoscope on it. BTW, you couldn't give me a rebuilt compressor. Went through 2 with my last car in short order before I bought a new one. The labor time and refrigerant aren't justified by the price difference. Just my experience.

Reply to
Vic Smith

I will say even after replacing the tensioner when the compressor turns on you can visually see the tensioner vibrate back and forth a lot more than when the compressor is off.

Are rebuilt power steering pumps ok?

Reply to
stryped1

Reply to
stryped1

I've had good luck with them, but my son has had a few bad ones. But he can change them so fast it's worth the price difference. It's not like changing the A/C compressor.

Reply to
Vic Smith

This sounds serious. My guess is that an AC shop would be able to tell you if the pump was the problem by listening to it. I'd just drive on in and ask them if it sounds like the compressor is making the noise. This would be the simplest way to check it out. Good luck!

Reply to
dsi1

If it is making the noise on initial start up as well it likely isn't the A/C pump.

Here's a test. Unplug the A/C clutch power so the clutch can't engage. Does it still make noise on initial start up?

Also with the clutch unplugged turn on the headlights, rear defrost and anything else that takes power. Then see if it makes the noise happen or get worse.

Another one put a wrench on the tensioner and apply a bit of extra pressure while the noise is happening. Does it change?

While it is making noise spray a SMALL amount of water on the belt and listen for the noise to change.

You said you replaced the tensioner and an idler? How about the belt?

Did this just start one day or has it been getting worse over time?

Reply to
Steve W.

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