For some reason my 2003 Chrysler Neon beeps when I reach 120km/h. I have checked the manual to see if it is a type of safety device, but there is no info in the manual. It is the same tone as if the keys are in the ignition and the door is open, but a much faster tempo. Perhaps it is some faulty wiring or an after market safety device.... any suggestions or similar experiences would fall on thankful ears.
Does not sound right to me. Did this just start, or has it been this way since you bought the car.
It was purchased about 2 months ago - has beeped for that time.
Dealer does not know how to fix. He's suggesting disabling the tone, but I think that will also disable the ignition warning.
John S. wrote:
Since it is speed related my guess is that it is a glitch in the computer. Can you have the car checked by another dealer for that make of car?
Maybe at that speed a door or the hatch is getting sucked 'out' just enough to trip a door-open sensor? Perhaps the door-open key-on alarm sounds different if the car is moving, or maybe the trunk/hatch open alarm has a different tempo.
Dave
I would try a different shop. I'd be a little concerned about some 'alert' or 'warning' that was going off at speed. It might be something minor (like the door getting sucked open) or it might be something hazardous.
Simply disabling a warning is never a good idea.
-phaeton
Have you looked at the dash warning lights as this beeping occurs? Look for a door ajar light or a seatbelt warning light that comes on in time with the beeping. Such a find would speed up your (the dealer's) diagnosis.
Toyota MDT in MO
I don't think it has anything to do with the door, as the speed is precisely 120 km/h every time the beeping starts. I think I will ask the dealer if he can 'reset' the computer and go from there.
Thanks to every> For some reason my 2003 Chrysler Neon beeps when I reach 120km/h. I
Have you tried reseting it yourself by pulling the battery cables and leaving them shorted together overnight?
I have not - didn't realize that you could do it that way.
Thanks.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:
It's a shot in the dark, but it's free and doesn't take much time so you should try it before going to the dealer.
I remember my dad once asking my mother to hold a large adjustable wrench he handed her from underneath a car that he was working on. She set it down on the battery and, with a very spectacular sound and light show, reset the ecu and fixed the problem. That's probably not the best way to power cycle a chip, but it worked that day.
Matthew
Just incase the OP gets any ideas from your anecdotal semi-suggestion... the worst advice you could give someone is to short the two battery terminals together ("She set it down on the battery and, with a very spectacular sound and light show"). The correct way to drain any charged capacitors in the system is to remove both battery cables and touch them together. This way you don't shunt the battery like an fool. It most likely won't cure the OP's problem in any case.
Yes, that's what I tried to say in the earlier post.
DON'T SHORT THE BATTERY! Pull - BOTH - CABLES - and connect those together. That should be simple, but pay attention as a car battery won't always forgive an oops.
Just another slight possible.
Perhaps you have some sort of speed warning system? Some cars, I remember some Buicks particularly, had an audible alarm feature that would turn on at a preset speed to warn the driver of reaching that speed.
SPEED DINGER AT 120 ? Problem is when you had it last service checked whom ever done your work has thrown computer out of wack? It just needs to be reset at Crysler dealer ship . It's no big deal. neon are known after a 160 clicks they always blow a head gasket all around great little car. gord, bye for now
Yeah, that's likely...
Toyota MDT in MO
A few questions for Owen:
Who or what owned the car before you? Was this a fleet vehicle? On this car, is there a dedicated speaker for the chime or does it come from the radio? Is there anything plugged into the ODB port under the steering column?
As someone else mentioned this must be some sort of annoyance based governor. I would be surprised if this is built into the computer, as that would probably require replacing at least the ECU ROM, if not the whole ecu. Perhaps, though, there is a register or jumper in the ECU for just this purpose.
Let us know; there must be some definite answer.
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