Code readers and all the available options

Hi,

I would like to purchase a good code reader that will work with my current and future vehicles. I am not a newbie and know about cars. (not as much as you guys however).

Anyway, I have been reading about the different functions and not sure what they mean. Some have "o2 tests" which I assume is an oxygen sensor test, some say "view enhanced live data" which I assume allows you to view sensor readings. Is there a manual or book somewhere that helps you "decode" what these sensor readings mean?

Some say "OEM level DTC information". I have no idea what that is. Some have "freeze frame data".

Most I was looking at in the Sears catalogue say "internet updateable". Does that mean if I bought one now it will work on a car I buy 5 years from now, etc?

I found one I like but not sure what exactly it does. It is the Innova

3160 Professional Scan Tool with ABS Diagnostics. The whole reason I like it is it works on ABS too. (Which my 1996 Chevy has had the light on for some time.) Although, it says it only works for domestic cars and trucks on the ABS side. (Why not Toyota, Honda, etc?)

One last thing, I noticed language that says they can "turn off" the check engine and ABS light. If you turn the light off, will it just come back on the next time it detects a fault the next time you drive it or does it just stay off?

Anyway, I appreciate your help!

One more thing, What is the difference between these and the dealership computer. For example, the manual for my 2000 Dakota says somethign to the effect I cant adjust timing and if the engine runs rough after putting it togther to take it to the dealer to have the fuel control adjusted. Can any machine for a home mechanic do that? (I doubt it but thought I would ask.)

Reply to
stryped
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Hayne's and Chilton manuals list the codes. From what I've read the code only tells you what the "trouble" is, not what the problem is. But it gives you a good clue. For example, on my '91 Explorer I got a code that said my temperature sensor was "out of range." It turned out to be a bad thermostat and the temperature sensor seems to be fine. But the thermostat was stuck open so, after driving it several times with the engine temperature never reaching what the computer considers to be acceptable, I got a trouble code. All this was on an older system that did not require the use of a code reader, just a voltmeter or flashings of the CEL light.

From what I understand it will turn it off but will come back on if you didn't fix the problem and won't come back if you did fix the problem. I have only used an actual code reader twice and got no trouble codes on one car with a bad IAC and an oxygen sensor code on another. The sensor code could mean, from what I've read, that the sensor is bad, the wiring is bad, or there may be an exhaust leak causing a low reading. My understanding is that the "CAN" type read more codes than other types but I've heard and read that you can't get a reader that reads ALL of the stored codes and need to get those read by the dealer. Please post your results because I have the same questions and want to get a code reader too.

Reply to
Ulysses

O2 tests are the ability to read the actual voltages from the sensors and see what they are actually doing.

Enhanced live data means you SHOULD be able to read any live data that the scan tool and the vehicles software/hardware support.

That means in most cases that it shows you the trouble code AND an explanation of what that code means.

Freeze frame is the data that the computer captures when a code is set. It can show you what was happening when the code was set.

That depends a LOT on what happens to vehicle operating systems in the future. It is possible that a new controller system could come out that makes current readers outdated regardless of what software updates you can get.

Just be aware that ALL of the lower end tools only read SOME of the ABS codes. They do not allow you to run tests on the system or control the components. The one you are looking at isn't bad for an entry level scanner.

Turning off the light JUST shuts it off once. If the fault is still there the light will come back on. Some faults will not turn on the CEL until a set number of drive cycles have passed and the same fault is detected. Other codes only set under VERY specific situations.

The difference is in how much ability the machine has. The scan tool you are looking at cannot do many of the bi-directional tests or change ECM coding. A professional level machine can do far more BUT at a LARGE increase in price.

For the question about home mechanics equipment. Yep you just buy the high dollar machine. Nothing says that only the dealer can buy them. BUT be aware that a good unit starts at 1,500.00 for JUST the tool, cables, programming options, vehicle coverage, all cost more. I have well over $10,000.00 in my scan tools. I have a cheap Actron that I let other folks use. It is about what you're looking at except for the ABS. The others are a Tech II, OTC Genisys machine and a factory Ford laptop.

If you're looking for a machine at homeowner level that can be easily updated, works on many vehicles both foreign and domestic and has a LOT of options, I would suggest an OTC Genisys off Ebay. Just research what software/options it has.

here are a couple of examples.

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Reply to
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote in news:gt2jps$rbp$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

What's your opinion on this one?

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It's laptop-based.

Reply to
Tegger

Do you think the one I am talking about will work for my 96 chevy truck ABS light? It has been on for about 6 months.

By the way, are there cheaper models out there than the one I am lookign at that does both trouble codes and brakes?

Reply to
stryped

That is a READ only tool. Like 95% of the PC based units. It's only real virtue over the hand-helds is that you can display more data on the larger screen. However you need to have the laptop first. They are also usually slower with data updates due to the multiple data conversions (CAN/OBD converted to serial data converted to digital) and the biggest downfall is that they don't support ALL the protocols used and as a result can only read engine/powertrain data. Want to scan a BCM for a problem with the interior lights or a seatbelt problem, Or read the data off the ABS controller to see what the sensors are doing? Sorry most of them wont do that.

There are a couple of PC based units that work real well and give you bi-directional control, BUT they start at 2,000.00 for the program and ONE interface. You supply the laptop.

Reply to
Steve W.

Well looking at

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it might be covered.
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Also shows that the unit isn't available yet and that you can download the manual for it.

96 MAY be able to pull the code with a simple jumper wire, it depends on the ABS system in it. Some of the GM vehicles (up to 02 on many trucks) can flash the code on the ABS light.

Bosch 2E, 2S, 2U and 3 - Vehicle dependent as to code retrieval method.

Kelsey-Hayes RWAL - Ground terminal H on the ALDL and read the flashing code. HOWEVER it can only store ONE code so if you have multiple problems you may still get a light.

Kelsey-Hayes 4WAL - Ground terminal H and read the flashes.

Not really BUT there is an ABS only unit out there from Actron.

However I would bet good money on your ABS problem being a very common one for the GM trucks. RUST. GM even has a TSB on the problem.

On the front hubs there are two wheel speed sensors (earlier trucks have them on the brake backing plates and reading an external toothed wheel, Later units have them bolted directly to the hub with a torx bolt)

In either case those sensors operate by pulsing the signal back to the ABS controller and telling it how fast each hub it rotating. (Same thing occurs on the speedometer drive sensor as well). The ABS controller compares the speed of each wheel and bases it's actions on speed differences between them.

The catch is that those sensors only have a limited distance they can be from those toothed wheels. As such, rust, dirt, mechanical damage ALL can cause problems with those sensors. GMs TSB on them was due to rust building up between the sensors and the item they are mounted on. The repair is to CLEAN the area around the sensors very well, remove the bolt and pull the sensors out of the hub. Insert a plug into the hole the sensor came out of (keeps dirt/rust from getting into the bearings inside that hub) then scrape,wire brush the surface clean, spray it with some paint and re-install the sensor after cleaning it's mounting tab as well. DO NOT DAMAGE/CLEAN the sensor TIP itself. Just a quick wipe with a rag and some cleaner for it.

Then you can also spray the area around the sensor with some paint/sealer to keep it from rusting again.

Now follow the wiring up to the first connection, take that apart and clean it with some contact cleaner and put it back together.

Those are the two most common problems, Next one is a broken wire from the sensor to the connector. The sensors can be replaced without replacing the hubs.

Reply to
Steve W.

Thanks. I was thinking the ub migth have to be replaced. Can All this be done with the tire on? I have not really loked at it. This is a 96 Chevy full size 4x4 king cab with a 350 in it.

Reply to
stryped

NOPE, you have to pull the wheel and brake rotor to have room enough to work. With them in place the sensor is under the rotor hat.

It isn't a hard job.

Reply to
Steve W.

You cant take the brake rotor without taking th ehub out can you on a

4x4?
Reply to
stryped

"Steve W." wrote in news:gt4ht1$pf0$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

"Read-only" meaning exactly what? That it won't clear codes?

Or does "bi-directional" mean you can deliberately "push" certain things (fuel trim, maybe) in order to see what happens?

Reply to
Tegger

Read only means that it has limited abilities. It can read the codes and clear them but thats about all. It can display some live data as well, That can be handy IF you know what the data should be in the first place.

Bi-Directional is the ability to cycle things like the EGR, Turn off injectors, Change idle speeds, pulse different controls, turn the fuel pump on/off and MUCH more. Most of the tools under 4-500 don't have these abilities.

Many of the diagnostics that you need to do to check out the systems require that control ability.

Reply to
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote in news:gt5roa$f58$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

And like activating canister solenoids for EVAP troubleshooting?

I think I get it now, thanks.

Your $400-$500 estimate brings up another question: In your original reply you recommended a Genisys tool, and gave eBay links. This tool is selling for ~$1,800. Now you're implying that a tool exists that costs roughly a third of that price and may have such bi-directional capability.

I'm not trying to be difficult here, just trying to make up my own mind on which scan tool to buy for myself.

Reply to
Tegger

Some of the lower end tools have LIMITED bi-directional control. Also you can get lucky sometimes and get the Genisys or a Tech 2 cheap. There is a laptop scan tool out there that has bi-directional control, but the interface is REAL kludgy and relies on hex codes for instructions. I would look CAREFULLY at what you plan on using the tool for and if you plan on doing most of the work yourself and want to do more than just routine engine repairs get a higher end tool. If you figure that a trip to a dealer you're looking at 60-80 bucks just to hook up the machine.

Now if you only want to read the codes and turn off the light. Go lower end.

Reply to
Steve W.

"Steve W." wrote in news:gt8hr0$heb$ snipped-for-privacy@news.eternal-september.org:

Lower-end tools in my area go for about $70-$100. Considering the BR-3 laptop-based tool I referenced earlier runs me about $120, I ended up buying the BR-3 (I already have a laptop). The BR-3 does what the $70 tool does, plus it can display information the other tool can't.

I'll fool around with it when I get it and see what happens. If it's useless beyond code-reading, I'll deal with that when the time comes.

At least with your replies I now know better what to look for in a more-advanced tool. Thanks.

Reply to
Tegger

if you do end up replacing your ABS Sensor, you will need to replace the entire hub. I suggest going to

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for a new USA made hub.

Reply to
Auto Dude

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