Crude alternator load test. 88-Honda Accord

The 99.99% number was provided as example. The 99.99% ballpark number was created, as example, to keep the concept simple.

The term 'average life expectancy' as it was introduced by another referred to how batteries were sold in those days. Yes, the number of months stamped on a battery meant every battery should last beyond that date. But in the early 1970s, if a warranty was for two years, then the product was often failing in less than three. Therefore many assumed that 24 months was the average life expectancy. Reliability in the

1970s was so bad that many cars needed a whole valve job or new cam by 20,000 or 40,000 miles - typically just after the warranty had ended.

There should be little relationship between warranty and life expectancy. Warranty is some number less than the life expectancy. But in the 1970s, life expectancy for some products was often little beyond the warranty period for too many products. Therefore for a 24 month battery, many simply assumed that 24 months was, also, its life expectancy.

This was a period of Firest> w_tom wrote:

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w_tom
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Reply to
Randolph

not to stray from the already strayed, but.. you can full field load test those old honda alternators with a paper clip. there's a hole in the back that you can push a contact and bypass the regulator. Chip

Reply to
Chip Stein

As I've already pointed out, "average" includes a large number which are abused. When I see people walk away from their cars leaving the headlamps on because they know they have a handy-dandy auto-off switch I see umm, ignorance. Of course the same people will leave the headlamps and likely radio, vent fan etc in on position when they next start the engine - IOW simple abuse.

Obviously the timeframe means that observations are difficult to accumulate but personally I expect to get 7-8 years from a battery nowadays, just by observing the obvious precautions. My '92 Integra original battery lasted

71/2 years and it had those nutty auto-retracting seatbelts. I used to leave the door open while starting the engine... to avoid whacking the battery with the retracting mechanism jolt. When it did eventually need replaced, it failed quite gradually - the door open trick was enough to get it going 1/2hour after my wife had found the engine wouldn't start with the door closed.

Rgds, George Macdonald

"Just because they're paranoid doesn't mean you're not psychotic" - Who, me??

Reply to
George Macdonald

Once you do this if you turn off all the loads does the voltage quickly float up to 13.6 volts? If so then the alternator is prolly' okay. You may just need a battery. How old is it and of what quality? Are you near and Autozone or Sears? They will check the system out for free, or a small fee.

Reply to
wß

Good question, I didn't include this information because I thought everyone assume if it reads 13.6V with load at fast idle then the voltages should jump up to 14.4V without load at fast idle. Which it did and I was wrong to assume. I regret not including this info because the other BMW measures 13.6V with load at fast idle and 13.7V with no load at fast idle.

Based on many advices the Beamer's alternator is broken, but it's newly rebuild and it works. It'll be impractical to yank it out in the freezing cold when it appears to work fine, unless I'm, otherwise, convinced.

About the battery, it was a cheap`o Wa1-Mart one-year free exchange battery rated at 650 cranking amp max. I'll be sticking with the Sears 7-years free replacement Die-Hard or Duracraft or something. Tibur

Reply to
Tibur Waltson

Thanks for the reply Randolph. If I remember correctly, the voltage on the scope looked something like:

/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\

with sharp peaks (+/- 0.2 volts) spaced out evenly. Does the above wave signal any problems your fimilar with?

Thanks,

- Dave

Reply to
Dave

No, not to my knowledge.

Reply to
Randolph

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