Thanks for the comment, Dan. If I would have had to depend upon your advice, I would be shelling out $1000 dollars to fix a van I only paid $200 bucks for. Also, Time = Money. I'll reinvent the wheel anytime that the alternative is more time and $$$ than money I have in my pocket or time I have on my day(s) off. I fixed the beast in one afternoon for less than $100 bucks and a few hours of labor.
Unless you are > I'm beginning to suspect Mr. Gant here is our very own "Student Mechanic"
Which Einstein proved (as pointed out by Gary Larsen).
Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")
We will remember and google archives these.
Sure thing on 3.5 HP B&S engines, done a bunch, it was from over-rich running or burning oil but preferably NOT on vehicles, causes much damage from pinging.
Leaving in that cat converter will plug up (melt down or break up) eventually from prolonged rich running with uncontrolled carb or no air injection or both. Some states or provinces regarding putting vehicles on road requires passing the emissions & roadworthiness. Everything has to be repaired to spec or replace the carb & emissions with later ones like pulling TBI, computer & wires, intake manifold and another cat converter from a 2.2L car, take the wires from 2.5L 'van. Drill & tap the exhaust manifold for O2 sensor or get exhaust manifold from 2.2L TBI. Info and matching up wirings correctly requires service manuals.
I prefer these people to carefully tune the carb'ed vehicles and vacuum systems in working order or modified correctly carefully even it does not have cat converters. We all share this same world so respect the precious enviroment.
To Dan, whoops on my part for
This rich condition points to carb malfunctioning and incorrect float level. I'm working on that exact problem. Rebuild carb! Rebuild kits for 5220/6520 carbs is not that expensive, NAPA, etc. Putting in regulator is band-aiding over the rich problem. The mechanical fuel pump has own "built-in" max pressure by design, lever itself doesn't pump the fuel, the springs did indirectly.
Oh, carb needs the computer just to kick up the idle in specific situations (cold, warm up and hot engine, hot or cold restarts etc also either has A/C or not). Also computer controls the cutting out or in secondary throttle soleoid for vacuum-operated secondary butterfly. Rigging up those circuits to sequence correctly depending on situations and engine temps without computer takes real talent.
The cam is removeable & interchangeable, get a cam without the #3 retard.
I would take that one over the 009. You want less hassles and reliablity. Cost does nothing to do with the vehicle's age.
This one from John's is good reputation.
Actually, Chrysler went with optical triggered on 3.0 then back to magentic hall-effect sensors (pair of them) one on flywheel & one on camshaft. Sensitive enough to detect misfire from that two alone. Sets off the engine light and makes emissions worse even on misfires.
Don't bother with budget especially vehicles. It's both safety, reliblity & emissions. Even off roading.
The setting up, troubleshooting carb info is in offical service manual, available from anywhere: ebay, chrysler dealers, etc.
Cheers,
Wizard
Comments inline..
Cats are usually found upstream of the muffler.. if the vehicle is not going to be licensed for the street just forget the cat and install a test pipe.. Will the van be licensed for the street? If so, what are the inspection requirements for it?
Running rich will cause the cat to run hot and possibly overheat..
Both the 050 and the 009 are RPM based advance, no vacuum advance. Known flat spot problems using these distributors on stock engines.. There is an 050 with vacuum advance available though.. Engines that run rich won't see the flat spot problem.. once you get yours to run leaner expect to see it.
With a little research I found that the Chrysler 1.7L engine (which is the VW engine) distributor will work in the Chrysler designed 2.2L engine. Here's a link..
Would $200 have fixed the stock ignition system?.. Is that $200 parts or parts and labor? Will your homemade ignition system work better than the correctly operating factory setup? How are you going to operate the feedback carb without the computer operational? Default mode on that carb is 'full rich'.. Are you aware of what other systems are affected by disabling the computer?
My suggestions would be to get a non-feedback carb, use the 1.7L distrib with vacuum advance, and check the cooling fan. (Or - get the complete non-computer system from a donor car) Heck, check with Mopar Performance and see if they have a retrofit kit for that engine (much like the retrofit kits for the Lean Burn systems).
Maybe it will, maybe it won't. One question is does it run better (more efficiently) than factory or not? I guess the real question is does it do what you need it to do regardless of if it works better than factory or not.
Regards,
Jim
No inspections required for the state of Florida as of this date.
Excellent info, absolutely the best! Thanks a million!
Well, I've only dropped down $65 for the Bosch 009, and spent an hour or so swapping out the distributor drive cogs, installing VW distributor clamp, trimming the ends of the stock Chrysler ignition wiring leads (to fit the Bosch dist. cap), set timing to best idle/performance, ect.
Adding on an ignition kit is just a remote possibility at the moment.
As for non-feedback 2 bbl carb, yes, that would be a good idea. Also I would consider restoring ignition to factory original if I find the right junkyard with the right price.
The main thing is that I can move the van if and when I want to, as opposed to letting it become dead weight on the ground with a bum computer and a dead spark. Cars weren't made to sit inside a museum, they were made to be driven. I have accomplished that much so far. With far less money that what some of the posters have suggested. Hopefully the cat won't go south for the short time that I'll be using it without the stock ignition set up. I'll keep you posted.
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