Dude, you need to get 'unstuck' off yourself. You're just making an ass out of yourself.
Perhaps you do know a boatload more than I do, but I don't really care, since your "Holier Than Thou" attitude just keeps making you come off looking like an arrogant ass.
And as far as I can see, you haven't really helped anyone with anything, you just come across with put downs and ad hominems that do nothing but steer the conversation at hand away from the point.
Maybe if you dropped the attitude and added some content people would listen more to you.
"*" wrote in news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8@race:
Glad to know that.
They roll, to prevent seizure of the sensor?
That's what I use in electrical connectors, which is what the factory used. I did not know you could use it for where the shoes contact the backing plate.
"*" wrote in news:01c7f6ca$f811eee0$0c91c3d8@race:
First post doesn't seem to have "taken". Repost follows:
The beads roll, to prevent seizure of the sensor?
That's what I use in electrical connectors, which is what the factory used. I did not know you could use it for where the shoes contact the backing plate.
Not really. I've been doing my own brake work on my cars (including my BMW) for years. Disk brake service is pretty easy, at least on the cars I've had. It takes some muscle at times, and you'll get plenty dirty, but it's not that difficult or complicated.
Nope, don't fall for that one. I've never in my life had a rotor turned. If they get too bad, I just replace the rotors with new ones. I replace the rotors on my BMW with every other pad change. My Japanese rotors last a good deal longer.
For just pads for all four wheels, maybe $80? I don't remember, it's been a while (DON'T go to the dealership for these.)
Probably won't need any videos. A Haynes or Bentleys manual might be a good idea, but really, I'd bet those Honda brakes are pretty straightforward and you could do it just eyeballing the situation.
oh, no! Don't let * see this post! He'll tell you how you've been doing it wrong for years, and endangering everybody including yourself due to 'invisible' things only he seems to be able to see...
Now, in all seriousness, we're talking brakes on a car here, not on the landing gear of a Space Shuttle. Pads, a rotor, a caliper is pretty much it. No advanced degree in Aerospace engineering or a Mensa IQ required.
To the OP: pick up a manual and pre-read it before attempting. Even if you decide not to do the job, it helps you understand your car better.
Also, look here:
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this is for a 1995 Accord, but you can see it's not too hard to comprehend.
Of course, I think * managed to scare the OP into giving up anyway...
" snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@19g2000hsx.googlegroups.com:
Where are you paying $800 for a brake job!!! Holy crap! If you have a 4- wheel disc system, the job is cake. Check out the cost of replacement rotors at a local parts store (not the dealer!) if resurfacing is needed to compare costs. Never bought rotors for my Hondas, but my Ford replacement rotors were $13 each.
Here's a hint: Do one side at a time...if you forget where a part goes, check the other side.
Disc brakes are cake. Drum adjustments (bearing torque, initial brake adjustment) are a little tricky.
Another example of that sort of macrolubrication is bentonite grease, which is made with a kind of clay that has big flat pieces that slide easily across one another.
I tend to suspect silicone dielectric grease is more effective on connectors, but the lithium grease is cheaper and should last twenty or thirty years.
"*" snipped-for-privacy@this.addy.com> wrote in news:01c7f79c$e6bf3d00$ce90c3d8@race:
It has been my impression that galling was a phenomenon most commonly experienced between metals that were close in hardness. In other words, if one metal was significantly softer than the other, galling wouldn't occur for the reason that the softer metal would simply smear instead of balling up.
And simple surface-texture embedment. From what I've been told by an engineer at BoltScience, embedment is the primary reason that loosening torque can be several times what's applied while tightening.
Oils are not compatible with water. If oil is present, water cannot generally react with the metal. I have found that just about any kind of oily substance will keep rust off the threads, provided it does not wash away.
I have found (after a lifetime of living in the Rust Belt) that rust rarely penetrates more than one turn of thread. It's corrosion of the head to its mating surface that makes such bolts hard to remove. If the bolt goes into a through hole, the end thread of the bolt will seize at its bottom turn, which is why these often need to be drilled out.
I wonder why my car has absolutely no substances applied to any of its fasteners that go into aluminum holes? I guess the bolt itself may have a plating or wash that consists of an anti-seize? Toyota's OEM spark plugs that were intended for 100K mile intervals used to be cadmium plated, to prevent seizure. I'm told they've replaced the cadmium with something else that's supposed to be more "environment friendly".
The most flagrant example of galling, (in my experience), was with large stainless steel bolts/nuts in the semiconductor equipment mfg biz.
Since such assembly operations took place in clean room conditions, use of grease, oil etc. was not an option. In fact, the only possibility wa the use of IPA, (isopropanol), which worked to reach the required torque spec...
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