Eagle Starter Problem

Did you remove/burnish the contactor ring driven by the solenoid armature? VERY common intermittant failure in any vintage Nippondenso starter.

I don't know all the proper names for the components of the solenoid, but if you're referring to the circular contact on the shaft that goes down into the solenoid armature and would complete the circuit across the two contacts through the case of the solenoid, then yes. I removed the shaft and cleaned up all the way around the edge of it with a wire wheel. I also unbolted both of the contacts that pass through the case of the solenoid, and did the same to them both on the contacts and on the threads. My thinking being that the cleaner all the contacts are, the less resistence to current flow there will be. I'm clearly not having any current flow problems in the activation of the solenoid windings as I can distinctly hear that throwing and going clack, and we're not talking about the sort of clicking that you get when your battery is weak.

I read some other posts that talked about Toyota's using the same sort of starter solenoid and having the solenoid contacts available (whereas our wonderful Chrysler dealers wouldn't). I think I'm going to pursue that next since those contacts are probably relatively cheap.

Quite correct. Mr. Ohm's Law works every time.

If the contacts are both clean and properly making, replacing them won't do any good. The way to check them properly is to measure the voltage drop across them when trying to use the started. To do this, place a voltmeter across the battery connection and the motor terminal and then crank the starter. Nippondensos generally (but not always) have access to the motor side of the solenoid from the outside of the case, so you shouldn't have muc problem doing this. When the motor cranks and if the contacts are good, there should be as close to zero voltage drop at this point as possible. However, if there's a high resistance in the contactor circuit, you'll see a large voltage drop here. Also, when/in the motor refuses to turn, you'll probably see nearly full battery voltage here, so set your voltage meter (if it's not autoranging) to accommodate 12 VDC.

If the contactor is good, you see little if any voltage drop and the motor STILL won't turn, you're looking at stuck/dirty/worn brushes, which on a Nippondenso, aren't that big a deal to change out. Brushes for these are usually available at better auto parts outlets...NOT the schlock chains, like Poop Boys and AutoBone.

Good luck!

There's a shop here in Independence, MO, that will sell the solenoid contacts. I've bought contacts for a few Chrysler minivan starters, and they always tell me to bring the starter in to match the parts visually. Most shops that are in the business of rebuilding things don't like to sell parts, but these guys went ahead and sold me what I needed for well under $5.

It's getting very hard to find an old-time "auto electric shop," which used to specialize in battery rebuilding (a lost art), generator rebuilding (same), alternator rebuilding (getting to be a lost art) and...tada...starter overhaul, still a big business, but one lost to cheeseball rebuilders that feed cheeseball retailers like AutoBone. There's still one here locally and he will sell genuine, usually OEM, starter and alternator parts for a reasonable price. He'll also turn slip rings if you bring in the armature, or turn/undercut a starter or generator commutator. I do those myself on a small engine lathe here at home, so I don't need those services usually, but if I have a burned or missing commutator sector, he's got the stock to make a new one and will solder it in and turn it for about $25. He's going to retire in five years, and that'll be that for such shops in this whole area.

PS: If there's a brush or winding fault in the motor proper, you'll probably get zero voltage drop on the contactor as well, since the motor side will still be up to battery potential and the voltmeter can't "see" the negative battery side through the fault. Another common failure on NDs is worn brushes, so be prepared for this, as well.

They're bad whenever the starter starts doing what yours is doing :-) Actually you probably noticed a groove in them- its not supposed to be there, new contacts are perfectly flat.

Just replace them.

yo bruce im a new user of this system but i read your post - i got a 97 eagle vision and like you said when its damp out my car doesnt start either. it actually stalls if i go thru deep puddles. The guy whom i bought the car from told me that if/when he drove thru puddles and the water was deep enough to splash up into the wheel well the car would stall and he would occasionally be able to start it back up. Tonight i was driving down the street and my car (the vision) stalled. I called a friend who is a vetran mechanic and explained the situation to him and he went on to tell me that it is the or most likely to be and i quote "something that feeds the ignition system." My car upon turning the key interior lights fire up, blinkers, windows, etc work and the car attempts to start but all i get is the prior to engine firing clicking.. i think thats when the alternater starts the starter/ engine. i get no turnover. anyways i know this probably is the longest and biggest waste of your time but im taking my car tomorrow to a mechanic to have it diagnosed and fixed, even if it just takes a bunch of flippin bondo in the wheel well to keep it dry. anyways let me know if you resolved your issue otherwise email me or something and ill let you know if these guys can fix it.

Also do you know where the oxygen sensor is!?!!?!?!?