Following the ABS troubleshooting steps; Have any suggestions?

the scs connector is a two pin blue connector under the glovebox. jump it, then turn the key on. I bet you get 1 1- something. the 30 sec interval is the key. it's a high pressure failure. now go price an abs pump and prepare for heart failure. Chip

-- Tp,

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try checking the sensors. follow the sensor cable to inside the body and each one has it's own connector. open the connector and with an ohmmeter ( circuit tester ) test toward the sensor for continuity. you should get a reading from about 800 ohms to 1500 ohms. if you get an open circuit on one then it is kaput. twice on my 92 accord the abs lamp has come up and i have found it using this method. on another occasion it was the pump. i stripped the pump down and found the motor to be at fault the motor fields are permanent magnets which are just glued on to the yoke. rust had got underneath the magnet and lifted it so that it jammed onto the armature and locked it. good luck.

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You need to determine if it's TIME related or Movement related. What happens if you just start it and idle in the driveway? If it's OK for two minutes, but comes on as soon as you start to roll, it's probably a wheel sensor. Scrub the front tone rings with a fine wire brush, and be sure the sensor isn't 'dislodged' by a stone getting in there. You may find the blue connector plugged into a 'dummy' plug which keeps it from rattling. It's above or below the glove box, right?

'Curly'

Thanks all!!

When I start my car the light goes out as normal, but only when I drive it does it come on. And it seems to be a variable time length before it comes on. I would say it is deffinetely linked to motion. Also, my CV axles went bad and I drove those things into the ground. When I finally changed them out (I wish I did not wait as long, but I was broke) the boots had torn apart and grease was EVERYWHERE. I had to clean off all the accumulated crud off the speed sensors, so maybe there is a situation there. I also hit a curb quite a few years back, so maybe the knuckle is bent slightly and the sensor drifts from the ABS teeth on the CV joint, I can't really recall which came first here, the ABS problem or the curb problem. I'll try to get the car up in the air again this weekend and have a look at the sensors. I'm also hearing some noise coming from the back brakes, so maybe the problem lies there. I'm having over-heat issues as well, so I don't know when I can get to it. I'm guessing by the behavior that it is the thermostat, so that may not be a time consuming issue.

Thanks for the suggestions..

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For overheat problems, fill the reservoir to MAX a couple mornings in a row to see if it stabilizes. Use Premix, never tap water.

It only takes a bit of grease on the tone rings to accumulate enough grunge to throw the ABS sensor off it's game. The manual calls for 1 mm clearance, but they always seem to have twice that much, and still work perfect.

'Curly'

I pulled each of the four plugs out and ohm'd them. Neither was close to 800 ohms. The highest ohm was ~500, and the others were lower, like near zero. Could these be bad if they are too low in resistance? My understanding is that the sensors pretty much are coils, so low resistance would not be terribly abnormal, correct?

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'95 Odyssey was about 900 ohms all around. They are similar to the coil in a doorbell, mounted around a permanent magnet. The rear ones on an Ody can get a clump of iron filings on them which reduces sensitivity.

'Curly'

Was sick for a few days.. It has warmed up some here and I've noticed over the past few days that my brakes are working differently. when it is around 65 degrees or so there is no noticable issues (other than the ABS light coming on a half mile down the road), but when it gets up into the high 70's there is noticable spongy-ness in the brakes. When stopping they will slowly keep going to the floor. Once at the bottom the car doesn't move, but the hotter the car gets the less longer it takes to stop, or I have to push the pedal more..

Could this affect my ABS? I know ABS doesn't affect the main brakes, but could a faulty (perhaps master cylinder?) component in the main brakes affect the ABS?

Thanks for any suggestions!!

The pedal sinking to the floor is pretty classic for master cylinder trouble. Most often the pedal holds up if you keep a lot of pressure on it, then sinks if you lighten the pressure.

Mike

Yeah.. I'm thinking also the master cylinder is bad, perhaps I'll replace it this weekend. Man, this repair list on my car is growing fast!!

I'm wondering though, if that would have an effect on the ABS not working. Is there a pressure test or something that could detect a faulty master cylinder and shut the ABS off? Mind you, the ABS only turns off after vehicle movement, not startup.

My rear brakes make a rubbing noise, sorta like when you put new brakes pads on and they haven't mated w/ the rotors. I inspected the pads and they are fine, so I was wondering if the parking brake could need adjusting? Could this be causing the ABS 'turn off'?

Thanks so much everyone...

====== ====== Scube.....

you need to find that connector and pull the ABS codes. It's going to save you some time.

look again. The connector should be under the glove box area.

If you're emails operating I'll send you a diagram.

~:~ marshmonster ~:~

yeah, my email works. I have diagrams from a shop manual. Is it the same connector that the 'check engine' light uses? I'll look some more. would it be under the rug or something? I jumpered the connector that I found, but only the check engine light came on (did not flash).

======= ======= No...different connector.

The ABS light will flash codes when the correct connector is jumpered.

CHECK YOUR MAIL

and let us know.

~:~ marsh ~:~

Hmmm, okay, I'll look. I tested my car in a long parking lot the other day and tried out some scenarios. There is no time related issue with the error. It is all speed related. As long as I stay below 10 MPH the light stays off. When I go above that it pops on, so I'm guessing it is a speed sensor. When I ohm'd out the speed sensors I got 0 ohms through one or two of them. Is that normal or acceptable? Could these be bad? I don't think the pump would be bad as there is no timeout issues with pressure or anything, but I guess I won't have anymore data until I check that connector. It'll have to wait a week, I'm away from my automobile. Thanks for the replies and help...

The pictures in the Email I got were not available. They didn't show up in my email and the picture link says they are temporary out of order. ALLDATA Online. Oh well...

Fault codes: how to access. Turn igniton off. Bridge diagnostic socket terminals. Turn ignition on. If ecu is ok warning should come on for 2 seconds and then go out for 2 seconds. The lamp should then begin to flash. The first set of short flashes indicate the first number of the fault code. A brief pause seperates each flash. A medium pause seperates each group of flashes. If there are more than one code stored a long pause seperates each trouble code. CodeFault

1Hydraulic pump motor over-run (contact BBA) 1-2Hydraulic pump motor (contact BBA) 1-3High pressure leak (possibly modulator) 1-4Pressure switch (contact BBA) 1-8Pressure accumulator 2-1Handbrake warning lamp switch circuit faulty 3-1Right hand front rotor damage 3-2Left hand front rotor damage 3-4Right hand rear rotor damage 3-8Left hand rear rotor damage 3-12Different tyre sizes fitted 4-1Right hand front wheel sensor 4-2Left hand front wheel sensor 4-4Right hand rear wheel sensor 4-8Left hand rear wheel sensor 5-4Right hand rear wheel lock 5-8Left hand rear wheel lock 6-1Front fail safe relay 6-4Rear fail safe relay 7-1Right hand front modulator solenoid valve 7-2Left hand front modulator solenoid valve 8-1ABS operation fault 8-2Electronic control unit (ECU) fault 8-4Electronic control unit (ECU) - internal circuit fault

Hey all, I've torn apart everything near and around my right passenger door kick panel except all the carpet. I only see 1 two-input connector and it is quite visible. I can't find anything else aound there and I read here that the engine diagostic SCS is NOT the same as the ABS diagnostic SCS. But, It is the only one I can find! Assuming for a minute that this IS the same as the engine diagnostic SCS, I get no codes from the ABS light.

My car is a manual 93 honda accord and the ABS light comes on after driving when the speed climbs to about 10mph (not before that speed though) and stays lit solid until the ingnition key is turned off and back on.

I'm thinking it is a wheel speed sensor, which the manual says each sensor should have about 1000 - 1600 ohms resistances, and I get roughly zero ohms resistance.

I guess the ABS control unit will remeber the diagnostic error from when I drove my car above 10mph and the light came on solid. So, when I turn my car off it will keep it in memory? Then, when I jumper the SCS it should recall this code and display it? Is this correct?

I guess I'll try to jumper the connector I found once more and see what happens.

So you are basically saying that you have one shorted out ABS sensor and the light is on bitching about it.

I would just replace the sensor......

You could always just pull the light bulb that is annoying you or put some black elictrical tape over it..... ;-)

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >