Run extremly rough in idle and becoming extremly hard to start. Fuel pressure was check and ran between 55 and 60 psi. Driving me nuts....hoping someone on here has had the same problm or seen the same problem on ths engine
HELP!
Run extremly rough in idle and becoming extremly hard to start. Fuel pressure was check and ran between 55 and 60 psi. Driving me nuts....hoping someone on here has had the same problm or seen the same problem on ths engine
HELP!
That won't fix the flooding problem.
Many times! "Spider" central fuel injector assembly is blown causing severe flooding. You can replace the whole thing or possibly just the leaking regulator. It is under the tthrottle body and upper intake manifold.
Don
assembly is blown causing
The fuel pressure regulator is mounted to the side of the main injector body inside the upper plenum. To replace the regulator, you need to remove the upper plenum (plastic), the regulator is clipped to the injector main body, be aware of the O-rings and screens that are underneath the regulator.
if you plan to keep the truck, it may be wiser to preemptively replace the entire injector assembly with the new updated "mini-injector" that is available thru:
That was it exactly! Where were you a week ago! Thanks many....leaking fuel regulator....any other items I should be concerned about at this point?
Thank Don, he offered up the first correct diagnosis.
Right here watching you argue that your 97 had coil packs. ;-) Had you bothered to pull the plugs that were miss firing and inform us that they were fuel fouled, you'd have saved a bunch of time. Your original post mentioned that the engine had been "scoped," even a half assed technician should have been able to discern fuel fouled plugs from the burn line of the scope pattern.
As I advised in my last post, the injector assembly has been updated to a better design that isn't as prone to sticking and causing miss fire. I'd also monitor the catalytic convertor on that side for failure due to the now known over fueling condition.
coil packs. ;-)
1) You posted a reply to my post in the thread. 2) As I acknowledged, Don had the first correct reply. 3) Learn to use your news client, read attributes, etc.
I've installed a few.
No. I know of Jim but I'm not sure who Doug is. I guess these seminars are worth the money, huh?
So, is your 02 Corolla customer going to get help from Toyota on the oil burning issue?
Toyota MDT in MO
posted a reply to my post in the thread.
Will me taking a vacation improve your reading skills?
Too dry.
Doug is the #1 injector guy there, it's who you'd have talked to before they got big and started hiring more help.
Absolutely. Jim Linder is a very funny guy, he has good stories which keeps it interesting. I haven't been to the Guru school but he's been up here (Milwaukee) as a guest speaker.
Prizm. Chevy said too bad, out of warranty. Customer opted to try his own fix of soaking the rings with Marvel Mystery Oil for a few days. I'm not much of a believer in mechanic in a can, so we'll see...
That's because you haven't tried "Mechanic In A Bottle". It's different, and here's why... Tiny mechanics are deployed into your engine's oil galleries, bearings, sump, pump, journals, etc. They are equipped with tiny mics, snap gauges, vernier calipers, plastigauge, etc. with which they use to measure all critical bearing surfaces. Then they remove burrs and add babbit where needed. Finally a PTFE additive is mixed to an exacting ratio with your existing oil (no change needed) which increases your engine's lifespan to 9.9999X10^15 years or 9.9999X10^15 miles, whichever comes last.
Toyota MDT in MO
Autolite AP64's are the best for my old raggity 1978 Dodge van.I once tried a new set of those Splitfire (or whatever they call them?) spark plugs about fifteen years ago.The first few miles out,one of them stopped working,cold dead in the water.I put one of my old spark plugs back in.About three days later,another one of those Splitfires quit working.I stick with Autolites now. cuhulin
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