The wife has a '97 Toyota Avalon (approx 160k miles) which is experiencing front-end vibration at certain speeds. It seems to come on gradually at
45mph, is bad at 55-65, but then tails off sharply above 65 (it can still be felt as a kind of faint 'surging' below 45 and above 65 - but only if you know it's there, if that makes sense. It's always done the 'surging' thing, so I don't know if that's even related).
Shocks appear good (no excessive bounce). Rotors + pads are *visually* good (so it's not impossible that there's some rotor warping issue, I suppose). New tires, freshly balanced. No apparent play indicating wheel bearing or steering/suspension linkage.
Just wondered if anyone had any wisdom to impart as to possible culprits - driveshaft issue, maybe? (is there a convenient way to test?)
My advice is don't play around with it. Take it to a competent front end shop for a suspension check. And get the tires rebalanced, If you still have the problem, swap both front tires to the back. That should pin it down.
Do what Vic Smith said and I think you'll find the culprit. Balance the tires again, and have them check the wheels for 'roundness'. If it's a GOOD shop, they'll 'true' the wheels.
Yes on the first, I believe, but I'm not sure about the second. I'll see if I can swing by there this weekend and ask.
I'll try swapping tires front/back tomorrow too - but my memory is that last time I rotated the tires there was still some front-end vibration. That's not to say that there's not some problem affecting more than one wheel, though (the roads up here in the wilds can be pretty harsh in places)
thanks, all - I'll mess with it tomorrow and maybe report back if I get nowhere...
Could be a bent wheel, hub, or axle. You can do your own run out check. Jack up each wheel one at a time, stick a concrete block or something near the wheel and rotate it.
You were expecting a craftsman and got a machine operator, a powerful motif in many aspects of life.
That's a classic, and given good weather and a place to work, physically normal people with a bit of mechanical skill can do it themselves for free with no equipment that isn't already in the trunk. (Or find a *good* tire shop and have them do it as part of the diagnosis.)
It doesn't fix the problem but it's a good way to prove to the mechanic that there's something wrong with a tire or wheel that he needs to actually look at, not just a princess-and-the-pea problem.
One of the things he needs to look at when diagnosing a persistent tire problem, besides rim trueness, is the inside of the dismounted tire. Yes, the inside, in good light, while powerfully pushing back and forth on it. Sometimes you can spot a problem that way. A tire/ wheel combo that won't seem to stay balanced, or calls for an absurd number of wheelweights, should make a good tire man think of this.
Possibly the wheelweights aren't staying on, or that the tire is moving around with respect to the rim. A magic marker offers an obvious way to check for this. When these problems occur promptly, it's because the job wasn't done correctly.
In defense of the mechanics of the world, these things *can* be a big multivariate pain in the tailshaft to diagnose. But one looks at the tire and wheel first, where that is a possibility, because (a) they're easy and (b) they take a real beating down there. For background information, see for instance
Unfortunately, you were probably wrong. Many, if not most, of these people just chock the tire up on the balance machine and add the weights. Same is true for a lot of technicians who machine rotors. They go through the motions, but dont get personally involved.
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