heater takes forever to get warm

In a 2002 LeSabre the hot air is lukewarm for at least an hour. It could be normal but that seems unlikely.

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso
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bad thermostat, plugged heater core, Blend doors stuck closed

Reply to
Steve W.

The thermostat should turn the CEL on, though, right?

Reply to
Bill Vanek

Assuming that the lights works...

Reply to
Bill Vanek

Data display shows coolant temp between 175 and 220 depending on airflow due to speed.

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso

Probably the mixer door isn't working properly.

Reply to
Vic Smith

What happens when you bleed the cooling system? Lots of air in there? Is the coolant nice and clean or is it cloudy and brown? Have you been changing the coolant every year?

Find the coolant valve....when you turn the heat on and off, is it making a clunking noise or not? If the system is gunked up, it may be sticking, even if the core isn't clogged up yet.

--scott

Reply to
Scott Dorsey

Not usually. The computer just assumes that the vehicle is taking longer to warm up.

Reply to
Steve W.

Thermostat is stuck open. Temperature should start at ambient, Start engine and temp should rapidly climb to right around 210-220 degrees and stay there. You might get a few fluctuations as the thermostat cycles as it heats up and hit's the thermostats opening temp (195) Shouldn't take much over 305 minutes from cold for the temp to stabilize.

This assumes your coolant level is full.

Reply to
Steve W.

It might be mfr. specific. Some GM cars would reliably set the code if the thermostat was staying open. At least it seemed that way, and the Buick is definitely GM...

I don't know if that car still used a heater control valve that shut off the coolant flow to the heater core. That could also be stuck closed. But then again, his description of the temperature variation while driving does look like a thermostat.

Reply to
Bill Vanek

I've seen a code set because the engine ran too cold but only on certain vehicles.

02 Buick. No control valve inline. Just the blend/mode door
Reply to
Steve W.

Thanks. You mean 3-5 minutes?

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso

Check the most likely problem area first. Move the heater temperature control to make sure the linkage is still working. If the system is vacuum operated listen for the door movement. As far as I know, a bad engine thermostat wouldn't cause the heater to not work. I'm assuming that you're not affected by some freakishly cold weather.

Reply to
dsi1

I sure am affected by freakishly cold weather, but the issue predated it.

I haven't used the car since the OP but I'll check all the suggestions today.

Reply to
Tom Del Rosso

Yeah. Need to get an intelligent keyboard...

Reply to
Steve W.

An open thermostat will cause the symptoms originally posted. Especially given the rising/falling temperature of the engine.

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Reply to
Steve W.

If you suspect that an open thermostat is preventing your engine from warming up, it's easy enough to check. Open the radiator cap and start the engine. If you see coolant flowing through the radiator, your thermostat is the problem. If not, try moving the temperature control to the hot and cold positions. You should hear the door snapping shut. I'm assuming you don't have some fancy digital automatic temperature controls.

Reply to
dsi1

"Steve W." wrote in news:le5jbu$8l6$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

Number one thing. check coolant level any low and your heat will suffer. KB

Reply to
Kevin Bottorff

dsi1 wrote in news:le5mhn$t98$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

and if you do that on a crossflow rad you will have antifreeze everywhere. KB

Reply to
Kevin Bottorff

of course it does, that's the text book indication of an open t-stat

jeeeez GW

Reply to
Geoff Welsh

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