help with car battery charger connections

I have a Battery Minder Plus unit.

The manual makes the following mention and am having a hard time to figure out if my Positive(+) terminal is grounded or the Negative(-) terminal as both terminals have several wires running to different directions.

Clearly the manual is suggesting NOT to connect the clips simply to the + and - terminals.

This is from pg.5 at

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Quote: Connecting the BatteryMINDer when Batteries are Installed in the Equipment Follow these instructions when battery is installed in equipment (vehicle, PWC, boat, tractor, etc.). A spark near battery may cause battery to explode. To reduce risk of a spark near battery:

  1. Position DC output cord to reduce risk of damage by hood, door, covers, or moving engine parts.
  2. Stay clear of fan blades, belts, pulleys, and other parts that can cause injuries.
  3. Check polarity of battery posts. The POSITIVE (POS, P, +) battery post usually has a larger diameter than the NEGATIVE (NEG, N, -) post.
  4. Determine which post of battery is grounded (connected) to the chassis of equipment. If the negative post is grounded, see Item N. If the positive post is grounded, see Item P. N. For negative grounded equipment, connect the POSITIVE (RED) clip from the charger to the POSITIVE (POS, P, +) ungrounded post of the battery. Connect the NEGATIVE (BLACK) clip to the vehicle chassis or the engine block away from the battery. Do not connect the clip to carburetor, fuel lines, or metal body parts. P. For positive ground equipment, connect the NEGATIVE (BLACK) clip from the charger to the NEGATIVE (NEG, N, -) UNGROUNDED post of the battery. Connect the POSITIVE (RED) clip to chassis or engine block away from the battery. Do not connect the clip to carburetor, fuel lines, or sheet metal body parts. Connect to heavy gauge metal part of the frame or engine.
  5. When disconnecting the charger, disconnect it from the AC outlet, and then remove the clips from the vehicle chassis, and the battery posts. Connecting the BatteryMINDer when Batteries are Outside of Equipment Follow these steps when battery is outside of vehicle or equipment. A spark near the battery may cause battery explosion. To reduce risk of a spark near battery:
  6. Check the polarity of battery posts. The POSITIVE (POS,P,+) battery post usually has a larger diameter than the NEGATIVE (NEG, N, -) battery post.
  7. Attach at least a 24 inch long 6-gauge (AG) insulated battery cable to the NEGATIVE (NEG -) battery post.
  8. Connect the (RED) charger clip to (POS+) the post of the battery.
  9. Position yourself and free end of cable as far away from battery as possible, and then connect the NEGATIVE (BLACK) charger clip to free end of the cable.
  10. Do not face battery when making final connections.
Reply to
mike
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What are you hooking the battery minder to ? Most modern cars will have the negative terminal grounded to the frame. Also most other common equipment will also such as riding lawnmowers.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

Nearly all cars, motorcycles,ATVs etc are negative ground today. To be sure just look at the connections. The ground cable will go straight from the battery to the engine block or frame. The other cable goes to a post on the starter with a smaller wire going to provide power to everything else.

Really all you need to know is which terminal is which and they should be marked right on the battery.

What they are doing is having you make the connections in the way that is least likely to cause a spark near the battery.

With the charger not plugged in connect the charger wire to the post that is not grounded. Since the other post is connected to ground you can connect to most any bare metal you see and it will be the same as if you had connected to the ground post on the battery. By choosing a spot away from the battery you don't have to worry about there being a small spark that could set off hydrogen produced in the battery.

Keep in mind this has all been written with lawsuits in mind. In practice there is little if any spark when making connections with the charger not plugged in. Hydrogen is produced when the battery is charged, so the time you most need to worry about it is when disconnecting the charger. If the caps are on the cells and you allowed any hydrogen produced to dissapate there is nothing to worry about. IMO the most danger due to hydrogen (or gasoline fumes) would be one a boat.

On many battery tenders for motorcycles there are wires, about the same weight as those on the charger, that can be attached to the battery and allow a remote connection without lifting the seat to get at the battery. One of these would also move any possible spark away from the battery. (They don't need to be 6-gauge, about as thick as your little finger, as suggested in the directions. We are talking about a 1 amp charger here.)

Reply to
Bruce Richmond

Find your battery + terminal. The battery is normally marked (+) and (-).

The + is often red and the - is often black.. But not always.

Follow the cables from the battery and see which one is connected to the chassis. That will tell you which terminal is grounded, NOT which is + or -.

Now, positive (+) is positive no matter whether it is grounded or not. Same for negative (-).

Reply to
hls

If you have a modern car, the negative terminal is grounded. You can verify this with a meter or a light bulb; connect it between the positive terminal and the chassis and the lamp will light.

If you have an MG, Morgan, Kallista, Zil, Lada, or some very old Fiat models, there is a possibility you have a positive ground. In that case, you have plenty of other more serious worries to contend with.

Yes. Batteries produce explosive gas, and when you make the final connection there will be a spark. Your goal is for that spark to be far away from the battery. So you connect the positive lead to the battery, then you connect the negative lead to some chassis point away from the battery. Likewise you disconnect the negative lead first. That way, the spark is not near the battery.

--scott

Reply to
Scott Dorsey

Another way is to put a damp towel or rag over the battery.

Positive (+) really is Negative (-) and Negative (-) really is Positive (+) but don't expect the Society of Automobile Engineers to ever change the books on that! cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

Convention current flow is from + to - Electron flow is from - to +

Make up your mind which convention you're using. Don't expect J.Q.Public to ever get a handle on this one.

Reply to
Nicholas

The Brits had it right the first time.(wouldn't Jeremy Clarkson be oh so proud?) Of course they call it Earth/Ground.

Years ago, I worked at a factory (Hi Joyce) that manufactured batteries for cars and trucks and golf carts and riding lawn mowers.Two or three times each year we manufactured a couple of pallet loads of old fashioned six volt batteries for MG cars.One time, one of those big extra heavy 18 wheeler truck batteries slipped off of a roller line and broke the middle toe bone in my left foot in two places. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

Nearly all modern cars are negative ground -- I'd say "all", but then someone would come up with some oddball example. Certainly any American or Japanese car built in the last 40 years will be negative ground, 12 volt. If in doubt, you could measure the voltage between each terminal and the car chassis -- the ground terminal will show no voltage, the other terminal will show full voltage. This is something you could do with a light bulb if you don't have a meter.

Reply to
Tim Wescott

Positive is positive by definition. Classical current flows from plus to minus regardless of the direction of electron flow. Maybe it should have been changed, BUT it still confuses a lot of engineering students who feel it shouldnt be that way.

Reply to
hls

What is confusing is that military electronics training for many years talked about current flow in the opposite direction. It was a bit of a shock for folks who learned electronics in the military to get out into the rest of the world and find the signs all reversed in all the equations.

--scott

Reply to
Scott Dorsey

It sure is a problem. The classical definition was taught in universities for years. Now we have an evolving dual system. It is a little like the metric system....it works fine either way, but it would be good to settle on one or the other.

Reply to
hls

The classical definition comes from Benjamin Franklin. He believed (and it seems perfectly reasonable) that lighting comes down from the sky and therefore the direction of current flow is from the sky to the ground. He used this to define positive and negative, saying the cloud has a surplus of charge and the ground a deficit.

But, it turned out that he was totally wrong, and in fact lighting travels from the ground to the sky (when it is "cloud to ground" lightning). So the current flow is in fact opposite of Franklin's convention, and the charge is carried by a particle, the electron, whose charge is defined as -1. That's how we got into that particular craziness.

I don't know when the military started doing otherwise, but I know all of the WWII through Vietnam era military training stuff talked aboout current flow in the direction of electron flow. I have seen one WWI manual "Principles of Telephony and Manual Telegraphy" which also used that convention although I don't know if it was standard at that time.

--scott

Reply to
Scott Dorsey

Well, when semiconductors were invented, "hole" movement was a validation of positive charge flow...after a sort. So the model turned out not to be wrong, just a little premature perhaps. ;>)

Reply to
hls

Some of the trucks I saw and drove in Vietnam had two batteries.They also had air compressors for the brakes.Every morning I had to wait about five minutes for that loud air compressor buzzing noise to stop buzzing. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

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