I rounded the bleeder screw - what now?

Hi,

I bled the brakes in my 2002 Alero yesterday, for what I plan is the only time. I'd like to know the bleeding process I'll have to follow, now that I have to replace one bleeder screw.

Two of the bleeder screws were rounded in the process. I used a flare nut wrench specifically designed for softer fasteners.

One of these rounded screws was apparently not tight enough. I discovered it was leaking. I capped off the bleeder screw with a small plastic cap and hose clamp. Today I plan on buying new bleeder screws and installing them.

I understand I'll have to re-bleed the wheel where I'm replacing the screw.

1) Will I have to re-bleed all the wheels?

2) Will I have to bleed the master cylinder?

I'm not looking forward to this, but I have a Mity Vac and hopefully that wil make things better.

Reply to
bryanska
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Common problem with 'cheap' flare nut wrenches. Vice-grip makes a nice v-groove wrench for just this job that will not round out a fastener. Just an FYI if you have to do this job again.

Good.

If all of the fluid leaked out of the system, then yes. And yes to your

2nd question too, if the master cylinder reservoir completely emptied out then you need to bleed the WHOLE system. If all you had was a leak at one wheel and you capped it off before it drained the system, then you probably don't need to bleed any of the wheels except the one that was leaking, and even at the leaking wheel you won't need to bleed it very much. Put the new screw in, bleed it once and if you don't see any air then tighten it up and forget about it.

Good luck with it.

Chris

Reply to
halatos

I always just use a socket wrench for bleeder screws. The 6 sided socket fits the best. Once they are loose, I then use a box end wrench to bleed them.

Now that they are damaged, I would use a vise grip to just tighten the loose one.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >
Reply to
Mike Romain

UPDATE -

A few lessons about Alero bleeder screws:

1) They are impossible to find. Advance Auto, Checkers, Bumper to Bumper, and a local shop didn't have them. Napa came close, but not quite. I bought 2 there but when I got them home they were too short.

2) There is more "hex" to grip if you remove the rubber boot at the base of the screw. It pulls right off and you have an additional 1/16" to play with.

In the end, I used the original screw with the extra hex I found. I put some silicone lube on the threads, and good a good seal and a good bleed.

Pedal feels great, road test %100.

Reply to
bryanska

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