JBweld on intake manifold?

I have used high temperature epoxy materials (the red two-part stuff) on motorcycle intake manifolds before and it held up fine. Try the JB Weld and see. Worse comes to worst it comes apart and you wasted an afternoon's work and maybe need to clean some gunk out of your water pump.

--scott

It may work, but let me ask you this, what is that manifold from? Is it an old car that needs a numbers matching manifold for any reason? The reason I ask is this, if it's a small block chevy manifold (can't really tell from the pic) you could pick a stock one up for next to nothing. The best performing ones can be found for $25 pretty easily at a junkyard, and if you know some car guys, chances are good one of them has one laying around that you could get for nothing.

It should. Folks use the stuff to block water jacket holes when they swap heads on 2 different straight 6's Jeep makes. They all say it holds...

Mike

Nah it's a australian holden v8 motor sorry, aftermarket manifold. They are still worth a couple hundred second hand which is why i can't afford to find another one.

I don't know for sure, but isn't Holden just a derivative of Chevrolet? They may be different entirely, but I'm pretty sure there was some sort of relationship between those two companies.

You might be able to try a Hollander's exchange manual and see what might fit from something else. You might be surprised.

JW

I would give it a try. Just make sure you get it flat again. Your intake temp. gets no where near 500 . I have seen some bad looking manifolds repaired with JB weld. Good luck. Scott

Get the metal bright and shiny, and JB will work wonders.

Plan on building a little 'form' that will fit inside the passage, get the sealing surface level by tilting the manifold, plan on doing a little filing afterwords to get the surface flat and even with the rest of the manifold.

Dave

Good advice, Dave. After he gets it shiny that errosion will look much worse than his picture. I would add that after cleaning I would take a tiny burr tool and rough up the surface where the JB will go. Then I would clean it with acetone or brake cleaner before applying epoxy. The old style 24 hour JB goes to almost 600=B0 I believe. Heat is not a problem here. Popping off with heating and cooling cycles can be if the application is faulty. I predict success.

I used JB Weld to repair a busted head-bolt boss on an old Ford 200c.i. head and it worked fine. Considering the fact that this was for a head bolt that is under a lot of tourque, I'd say resurfacing a manifold to repair corrosion damage would be a cinch. I've got stuff that I fixed with JBW that is over 25 years old and still holding. In fact, if you mix it well & let it cure for a week or more before you finish working on it, you can drill, mill & lathe JB Weld. It really does get that hard.

As others have said, make sure you get a nice clean area to work on and be careful in mixing the epoxy. My personal favorite is abrasive media blasting to really clean metal parts safely, but grinding and chemical cleaning is almost as good. Take your time grinding. 'Patience is a virtue' in this case like you wouldn't believe. ;) JB Weld gets really hard, but it's not the same hardness as metals so go slower than you'd probably like to.

Avoid acid-dipping to clean anything, it'll etch every part of your manifold inside & out AND it can make some things brittle. Rough inner castings in manifolds are not great for airflow. You didn't say if your manifold is aluminum or cast iron so I'll assume by "Old V8" that it's cast iron. Blast that with Aluminum Oxide and it'll look like it just came from the foundry. Cast iron is actually the same color as pewter when it's freshly blasted - really pretty! If your manifold is aluminum, go with glass bead. Aluminum oxide will tear into aluminum casting so fast you might rip a hole in your ($$$) manifold before you realise it. Then you'll be using a big old snot of JB Weld to fill the hole you made and you don't want that. ;)

Good luck, - JJ