leaking brake line

I believe you are describing proportional check-valves for the braking system, not good to bypass them. Just get replace metal tubes, a cheap tube-bender, drop the original lines, bend the new to shape, compression fitting and nut, good to go.

I have heard of others crimpint radiator tubes and brake lines, but my experience has never been successful at it. Brake fluid is very thin and slippery. I suppose a guy could try to solder it closes at the crimp, but why. Fixing it is quicker.

that is a valve used to very the braking force in proportion to the weight in the bed of the truck. dont bypass anything just replace the lines autozone and checkers sell brake line with fittings in various lengths and sizes just take the leaker off buy one thats close bend install and go..

Why are there 2 brake lines going to the rear of the vehicle? Is this for redundancy, or do they serve different purposes?

Why not trace them back and see if each goes to a separate reservoir on the master?

I tried, but I don't have a visual the whole way. I'd have to take a bunch of rusted-on stuff off to see where they go.

What I need is a hydraulic schematic of this vehicle's brake system.

I had an old Haynes manual laying around and looked in that, but all it says is that the front and rear brakes are serviced by separate hydraulic circuits.

I googled around quite a bit looking for a website with a hydraulic schematic but couldn't find a thing.

If anyone out there has a manual for this model and year truck and would be willing to answer a few questions about the brake hydraulics it would be much appreciated.

"Ether Jones" wrote

I can't find a map of the lines, but the first "device" at the back is apparently called a "load sensing proportioning and bypass valve".

Bottom of page:

Here's a big picture of what you probably see under there:

The second "device" is likely just a standard T-union to run the rear brakes after the proportioner decides how much pressure they need.

That is the line for both rear brakes then. The valve varies the pressure with the truck's load. If you crimp off that line, you will have no rear brakes.

Jeep pickups have the same thing.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >

You are planning to replace the line that leaks? right? All you need is to get at both ends of the line you are going to replace. The old corroded line can be left right where it is if it is too difficult to remove. To remove the compression nuts on the end of the lines cut the old line with a side cutter right next to the nut and use a 6 sided socket to remove the nut (do not use an open end wrench and round it off). Make sure to route the new brake line so that it is protected. You can use nylon tie straps to hold it in position if the old retainers are too far gone to be used.

-jim

I think it's going to take more than that, like an impact wrench or an air hammer or something (which I don't have).

I've fought battles with rusted bolts&nuts before, and lost. This one is caked with rust.

I find myself wanting just to limp down to an auto repair place and handing it over and saying "here, you do it".

What's holding me back is cynical visions of them using a torch on the nut to loosen it, and ruining the valve in the process.

If you can get a good grip on it it will come apart. Failure will come from chewing the nut up to the point where there's nothing left to grip. Its rusted badly only on the outside not on the inside like an exhaust bolt.

jim

Ether J>