Lost Keys, 1992 Chevy s-10

How can/should I obtain a

Last time I tried to get a key made for my 89 Firebird, they said it was too old and they didn't have it on file. They said it was more than 10 years old. So... Since you can get into your car, I'd either get a locksmith to make you a key (he'll have to remove the ignition cylinder to make one) or just go and get a new ignition cylinder with a new key and replace it..

-Bruce

Short of having the key code #, or knowing the original dealer and hoping he has a record of the #, or another key to copy the ONLY other way is to have a locksmith 'read' the pins in the tumbler and make a new key. I will be cheaper to simply purchase a new ignition lock, however..

mike hunt

Jill wrote:

Good suggestion.

Also if that is inconvenient you can take the key that is supposed to work but doesn't to a knowledgable locksmith, have them decode the bad key and put it back to factory specs. There are a number of rules involved for a GM key of that vintage. There are 6 spaces in the key therefore there are 6 tumblers. There are 5 tumbler depths, 1,2,3,4 and 5. A number 1 tumbler depth is equal to the height of a key blank. A number 2 tumbler depth is equal to the precut just after the key blank shoulder. Of course a number 3 depth is .026 below a 2 depth and a number 4 depth is .026 below a 3 depth. A number 5 depth is .026 below a 4 depth and touches the first rib.

When proper depth is determined, write each number down and the total MUST add up to an even number, for instance, cuts 234533 when added come out to a total of 20 which is even. All GM codes for that series add to an even number.

Another rule is that a cut can be no more than 2 depths different. For instance a number 1 depth can have a number 2 and a number 3 depth next to it but a number 1 depth cannot have a number 4 or a number 5 depth next to it, the cuts would be too steep for the spring loaded tumblers to climb the blade of the key plus the cuts are close together and a good key could not be made with the illegal cuts.

A 3 depth can have all cuts next to it because both the 1 depth and the 5 depth follow macs, nothing illegal about that, that would be within the two depth range.

Also there cannot be 4 of the same depth next to each other such as

3333, that would be illegal and isn't done. There can be 4 of the same cut in a key such as 353353.

And the cuts cannot be decending otherwise you could remove the key in the on position. Example of illegal decending key would be: 123455.

Some dealerships are good when code cutting a key for a customer, they check their computer, obtain the key code for the vehicle and cut a key. They keep their equipment adjusted and in order. However some dealerships do not know jack about cutting a key, fact is some of my business is from correcting their mistakes even thought the dealership claims they did not make a mistake. In other words, the dealer will get the key code, cut a key and the key will not work because their equipment is not adjusted to specs. Usually the code that the dealership obtains is correct and that can be taken to a knowledgable locksmith who can cut a key from the code that will work. Check several smiths or more as prices from shop to shop will vary.

You may want to lubricate your ignition lock with some teflon lubricant of even silicone, take the key that doesn't work, that may be in the ball park close and with a small vicegrip, gently work the key a little to see if it will turn.

If you are good with a wrench, are mechanically inclined, the lock can be pulled in a reasonable time and replaced with new. As a locksmith of 28 years I could easily pull your ignition lock the correct way in

3 minutes or less however my first such job took about a half hour. One special tool is needed, a lock plate compressor which sells at the high end from Snap On or Mac for about $35. and from a cheapo auto parts store much less. The other tools required such as a steering wheel puller and a few drivers should be common to the mechanics tool box.

Good luck.

Very nice post, well worded and 100% accurate!

1-800-Chevusa usually has the codes on computer but the earlier codes are on microfiche and you really have to be nice to whoever answers the phone in order to have them dug out. The codes will be released to a locksmith of your choice, the locksmith must be verifiable through business records. The price a locksmith charges varies from business to business.

One other detail... I DO have an extra ignition key that I had made, but the key will not even FIT into the ignition. I suspect they made they key correctly (ie the correct profile), but they made it on the wrong blank. Is that a possibility? If so, how can I determine the correct blank? Can I simply have them mill the CORRECT blank with the profile from the existing key mad from the WRONG blank? Thanks...

Yes. You can try different blanks in your ignition until you find the one with the right profile then get them to cut the key from the wrong profile key you have in possession. I had a conventional blank made of my VATS key since I didn't want to pay $20 for a copy. If I lose my key, I can make a new VATS key with the conventional blank.

-Bruce

Thanks, Bruce, I will do just that! By the way, what is a "VATS key"???

If what you say is true, that you have a key with the correct cuts then yes, there are only 4 keyways for the B&S ignition lock for the S-10. They are A keyway, C, E and J keyway. I would eliminate the A and J keyway because they were not used for the year you mention, so it would be either a C or E keyway. Look at the key that you have, there should be an alphabetic number on it, this will tell you what key to eliminate.

As long as you know the value of the resistor pellet, yes, if you lose your vats key you can then have one made with the correct pellet. The price of VATS (passkey) blanks have come down quite a bit over the past six months. If you don't know the value, use a digital ohm meter to read it, write it down including the decimal points and you should be good to go. When I give someone a pre-vats key as you describe, I stamp the resistor number on the key head.

VATS is an acronym for Vehicle Anti Theft System. It's a ignition key that has a resistor chip in it. The ECM reads the resistor for the correct value, then allows the vehicle to be started.

-Bruce