Maximizing new car lifespan -- please give me tips!

Any oil will do, just be sure it is changed at regular intervals and don't put it off. No, changing the tranny fluid too often could actually be harmful. Try every 50K. But check the fluid level regularly . . . at least once a month. The most likely component to fail is brake pads/rotors . . guaranteed to fail eventually. Typical lifespan about 150K miles. Realistic lifespan about 200K max. Theoretical lifespan . . . your great great great great grandkids could be driving it. The A/C might need to be recharged every few years. That's about it, hopefully. Use plain old damp cloth to clean the interior hard surfaces of the vehicle, about twice a year. Oh, break-in of this vehicle should be about 500 miles. Keep it below 60 until then with gentle acceleration. After that, drive it like you hate it when the engine is warm.

Something that you didn't mention . . . the best thing you can do for any car is to clean the interior and exterior thoroughly and often. Minimum of once a month. -Dave

Excellent opportunity to teach you son and to bond with him, Ben. If you don't know how to do this work, find out how, and let him work with you. The following are my opinions, some of which I am sure I will be chastised for voicing:

*******Yes and no...they will all meet certain API standards. Use a good name brand. I have had a long standing stiffy on at Pennzoil, later to include Quaker State because their oil seems to promote varnishing. Maybe my imagination. ******If you are in rough terrain, hot weather driving, trailer towing, get a transmission oil cooler if your car doesn't have one. Heat (temperature actually) can destroy a tranny quickly. Change the fluid and filter, and perform any adjustments, on schedule unless you have really abused the car and want to 'make up' with it. *******Different cars have different failure frequencies, in most cases. Electrical failures rate high in some models and there is not a darn thing you can do about it. For the most part, regular and proper service will suffice...AND don't drive like a wild indian. ******Do this if you wish, but breakin of this type does not seem to be necessary any longer. Your granddad's car may have benefited from the above. *******If you keep the car clean and attractive, store it out of the weather, etc then you may not feel driven to trade for appearance sake. Motors nowadays often give no trouble at all up to about 150,000+ miles. Some go a quarter million. Tires and transmission are the two most likely expendables. Don't buy crappo tires... this is money wasted. Treat the tranny right and you would hope it would last for 100,000-200,000 miles.

What is the maximum realistic lifespan?

*****Above is realistic.

******* Kia is a cheap car. Even some expensive cars use cheapo plastic dashes. They fail because, primarily, of sunlight, heat. Get yourself a dash pad to keep direct sunlight off. In general, if the product has the Meguiars name, I trust it. ****** Service belts at designated periods. Use the air conditioner. It is better for you to use it than to 'save' it.

I appreciate the advice. Out of curiosity, why is changing transmission fluid too frequently harmful? Also, when you say "drive it like you hate it when it's warm," are you recommending that, after 500 miles, I make hard accelerations, etc, in order to set the rings or something similar? Obviously, I don't want to do this on a long-term basis, so should I do this for about the next 500 miles?

Thanks for the advice.

Greg

Thanks for the advice. I've heard that about Pennzoil, but not Quaker State (they put paraffin or something in it, I've heard). Looks like Valvoline is the cheapest brand with a reputation, so unless I hear some sound advice to the contrary, that's probably what I'll use. Is there anything I can do to prolong transmission life besides not driving like a dumbass? I live in Oklahoma, so the weather is hot as hell in the summer and usually mild (compared to Siberia, anyway) in the winter. I wouldn't dream of towing a trailer behind a four-banger, so looks like I'm good to go in that regard.

Thanks again.

Greg

Changing transmission fluid is a complicated procedure? If it's anything like the dozens of cars I've had to change transmission fluid, it's not difficult at all. You can change the transmission fluid more frequently and that won't hurt anything. There are certain transmissions that are more prone to failure than others. Changing the transmission fluid more frequently can help to prolong the life of a transmission. You could install an auxillary transmission cooler but for a cavalier, it seems a bit overkill.

In reference to your original post:

I'd suggest checking your spark plugs every 30k miles. The color of the spark plugs will give you an idea if there are any problems: burning oil, coolant, lean or rich..

I agree with you, Bruce. I think it is an old wives tale that changing the transmission fluid too often causes premature failure.

Also I don't believe the breakin need anymore.

Ben Cardozo wrote in article ...

You have bought what is essentially a cookie-cutter, four-cylinder, FWD, econobox - built cheaply with cheap parts to maximize corporate profits, and not much different from many of the other cars in the same class.

Being completely honest with yourself, ask yourself, "...of all GM "X"-body cars sold in the past, how many 200,000 mile Cavaliers do I see out there safely running the roads these days?"

You'll discover it's a pretty small percentage - which correlates directly with the odds of achieving your goal - especially since the GM "X"-body cars such as the Cavaliers have such an infamous history.

Had you known you wanted to keep a car for a long period, you might have researched the longevity of cars such as Volvo, Saab, Honda, Toyota, etc. , and paid a bit more up front for longer life down the road.

Bob Paulin - R.A.C.E. Chassis Analysis Services

Depends on the car. Honda automatic transmissions use no filter, typically needs 2.5 quarts (out of a 5.5 quart capacity) of Honda ATF, and require nothing but a 3/8" drive wrench and a 14mm crush washer. This can be done with no special equipment. My new Subaru owner's manual describes a spin on automatic transmission filter. The oil filter says "ENGINE" and the tranny filter says "TRANSMISSION" to try to reduce mix-ups. However - I'm sure some quicky-lube guy is going to end up getting it wrong.

A GM Hydra-Matic transmission (likely what's in this Cavalier) has a pan and a filter. Doing some research, and I found that BMW buys their automatic transmissions from GM. The usual means of draining the fluid is to drop the pan and let the fluid spill out. You'll usually want to replace the filter and gasket (should come in the filter kit). It's very messy, and good luck finding a catch pan big enough. The amount of fluid replaced is less than half the capacity - most remains in the torque converter. The only way to get more out is to use an expensive exchange unit. I've done an ordinary transmission fluid change once on a Chevy Lumina APV. It didn't require raising the minivan because of it's clearance.

With an inline 4, it should be easy. Even if it's a longer life platinum plug, you'll want to check them for erosion or other stuff. Get a torque wrench for when you put them back in.

I live in S. Cal, hot and lots of sunshine. I gave up on Armour All years ago. I use something called System 2000, comes in a bright neon green bottle, should be available in most auto parts stores...it works quite well on vinyl. Also I make use of a good windshield sunscreen which I put up everytime I park in the sun for any duration over 10-15min. After 17 yrs, my '87 Toyota van's vinyl looks like new esp. after a coat of System 2000. YMMV

SteveO

"Bob Paulin" wrote

That's a "J" body. "X" went away years ago, and never was a Cavalier.

Ian

As was noted - that's "J-body". About all I see still on the road are some Cadillac Cimmarons. This was the highest-selling Cadillac model of all time, and part of the reason why Caddy's reputation took a huge nose-dive in the early 80's. It was essentially a Cavalier with leather trim and some minor styling differences - think "econobox Cadillac". I'm not sure why people are keeping these POS wannabe Cadillacs on the road, but I guess some drivers actually think they're cool driving a "Cadillac".

Certainly - I'd categorize this car as a "bottom line" car for GM. They sell just enough of them (at a loss?) to help meet the CAFE. While certainly Saab engines can last a long time, I've heard horror stories about the rest of the car becoming a money pit as they age.

shiden_Kai wrote in article ...

You're right!

I was thinking about the equally disdainful Citation...

shiden_Kai wrote in article ...

You are, of course, correct.

I guess I was thinking about the equally disdainful Citation...

B.P.

Not even CLOSE to the same, and neither are the synthetics either. And rather than give you my opinions, I would suggest that you spend a few evenings digging around on

for more information than you ever dreamed imaginable on motor oils.

Follow the "severe service" schedule regardless of actual driving conditions. Thats about the best compromise between opening the transmission up too often and letting the fluid go too long.

Its pretty much a "dispose-a-car" meant to compete with Japanese dispose-a-cars like Civics, Sentras, and the like. As such, it has relatively low routine maintenance at the expense of a shorter life than older rear-drive American cars or German cars, which will last forever if you continue to maintain them. Still, it should make it well past

100k miles (probably closer to 200k) with proper care. It will fall apart cosmetically (cheap plastic bits everywhere) long before the drivetrain wears out (unless its abused).

Bob Paulin wrote: ss.

Exactly 0%, since the Cavalier is a J-body and not an X-body :-)

FWIW, you're basically right- the J-body is a throw-away car just like a Honda or Nissan. But it doesn't have quite the wretched reputation that the X-body (Chevy Citation, Olds Omega, etc.) did.

You're KIDDING! I haven't seen a Cimarron in years and I don't even live in the rust belt.

I still see the occasional cosmetically intact Cimmaron. My guess is that there might be a ton of cheaply available rebuilt engines and transmissions to keep these things alive.

When I was in college, I really wanted a Chevy Cavalier Z24 until I test drove one. Instead, I went with an '89 Acura Integra RS and don't regret my choice.