Your first post merely mentioned that the voltage looked okay on the dash gauge. That is in no way even remotely close to performing a proper load or conductance test or starter draw test.
Not mentioned in the first post...
No, it's best to systematically test and rule things out.
They went a little longer than that...
The fuel pressure is?
On the top of the fuel rail, the end opposite where the fuel line attach. There is a small vacuum line connected to it. The underhood vacuum label/diagram should show it.
Now you're pulling our legs.
This doesn't work like some South Seas island, you won't appease the automotive gods by throwing virgins down the volcanoes...
You mentioned that the check engine light doesn't work. As a GM Certified Master Technician, Chevrolet Certified Master Technician, ASE Certified Master Technician w/L1, IM-240 referee, trainer for a major diagnostic equipment manufacturer and all around real nice guy, I can not express how important it is to begin with the non functioning check engine light. If it is jut a burned out bulb, the worst that you would accomplish is that you'd stand half a chance of extracting any trouble codes. If it's -not- a burned out bulb, the diagnostic routine for that failure would probably lead you to the reason for the no start condition.
1985 was not the best years for GM, their systems were by todays standards, shoddy. Something as cheap and simple as a shorted EGR solenoid could kill the entire system and cause a no start.Stop guessing, stop throwing parts at it, there isn't any silver bullet. Test and verify. Fuel, spark, compression. Suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Something is missing from the above line.