Need advice on paint (long but PLEASE read)

Hi. I recently acquired a '78 Monte Carlo in excellent mechanical condition and only 59,000 miles. Only thing it needed was paint.

Before I go any further, I'd just like to explain that I don't have a lot of spare money to spend on expensive options. I'm in college right now and I do just about everything on a budget. Now, that said, on to the issue at hand.

First, I had never painted a car before, so I did some reading and studying on the subject. After consideration of my budget and what I felt I could do, I decided to paint the car with white non-metallic, single stage acrylic enamel over an epoxy sealer. I do know I mixed the paint, reducer and hardener in the correct proportions according to instructions. I'm majoring in chemistry so I'm used to being specific in measuring out such things.

I used a general purpose siphon feed sprayer made by Powerbuilt that I bought at Checker Auto. The guys at Carquest, where I bought my supplies took it apart and examined it and said it should work fine.

Anyway, I used a friend's garage and compressor to do the spray. However, when I was adjusting the gun, I could never get the kind of pattern I've read that I should try to get. Most people said it should be a pattern that's about 8-10" tall from a foot away. I could never get a pattern more than about 6" tall. I tried the full range of the fluid flow control, I tried pressures from 25 -55 psi. I tried the full range of the pattern adjustment. I tried drilling an extra vent hole near the top edge of the cup, I still couldn't get the pattern any bigger, only wetter or dryer.

Anyway, on to the painting. I did the first coat kind of thin. Same with the second coat. At that point all traces of the underlying primer were pretty much covered except for a few scattered areas. I tried to make the third coat a bit heavier and it covered fairly well, and the dusty like appearance was beginning to fill in better. The fourth coat was much like the third and after that I was still left with a moderate orange peel, but I was getting closer. I figured a couple more coats should do it. At this point, my flow knob was all the way out and so I tried lowering the pressure to about 28 psi to try to make it go on wetter, if slower.

I got about 3/4 the way through my fifth coat when it happened. I lost pressure and at that point realized that the compressor hadn't kicked in for a while. It was DEAD. No breakers were tripped. It was just dead. The fifth coat was going on nicely and the orange peel was really starting to flatten out in some areas. But with no compressor I was finished. I had no choice.

So what do I do? I have orange peel ranging from mild to what I would call a little worse than moderate on the quarter panels. I also have a couple of minor cissing spots that need addressed with touch up paint and a total of 4 one to two inch runs. I still have a half gallon of the paint. Can I get that put into spray cans and give it another coat that way or should I just live with it for a month and wet sand it smooth then polish? Is it too late for another coat (I sprayed it Saturday night)? Do I even need another coat? I'm leaning toward waiting and then hitting it with some 2000 grit, but I need some advice.

It should be noted that I don't intend to win any awards with this car. I drive it constantly, so I just want it to look good going down the road and in Wal-Mart's parking lot and the orange peel doesn't have to look perfect but I'd at least like to get it something close to a typical factory finish.

Thanks for you time.

Reply to
JK
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If you mixed all the paint with the catalyst (hardener), the paint is finished long before you read this. Without air to blow out any remaining paint with reducer or gun wash, you probably have dried paint in the gun. You may want to wait a week or so, and GENTLY wet sand (use dish soapy water) the bumpy parts first with 500 or 600 for the big bumps, then 1000 for the smoothing, then 1500 to get the scratches out and buff the finish. Take your time and do only one panel or part at a time. Use a backer block under the sandpaper and sand in a crosshatch pattern. From your descriptions, you have 3 coats on now and there should be enough paint to do this. This is also long drawn out and tedious job, but if it works for you, you should get a class act look assuming you have complete coverage. At worst, you do a complete wet sand with 500 and repaint (with a reliable compressor).

Pete

Reply to
pete selby

I shouldn't. I sprayed laquer thinner through it for about 45 seconds after painting.

Reply to
JK

Limco 1-2-3-4 catalyzed acrylic enamel system.

That's good to know. So if I had opted not to use hardener, I'd be stuck with what I have, right?

This worries me. Since I did not get all the coats I had hoped to get, the vertical surfaces are kind of thin. Here's what I'm considering. I still have about 1.5 quarts of the paint and plenty of reducer. That should be enough to mix up about 2.5 quarts to spray. That should be enough to thicken the sides sufficiently I can't get another compressor, believe me I've called everyone I know about one. BUT, I was thinking I might get some more hardener and use one of those Preval sprayers. I hear they actually spray a fairly nice consistent pattern. That way I could mix the paint as I use it and use hardener. I can't use hardener from spray cans.

My question here... is it too late to put another coat on the side panels? It's been 52 hours since I sprayed it as of now. My idea is to degrease it tomorrow and spray those panels with the Preval gun. If that's a bad idea, please tell me.

Okay.

I'll probably actually wait until next spring to do the sanding... unless I get bored this winter or something.

Question: can the rubbing compound and glazing be done by hand? I know it might be tedious, but I don't mind doing the work if the finished product can be worth it.

The good news is that I stopped spraying as soon as I realized I was losing pressure. I did, however, have enough air left in the tank to spray thinner through it for about 30 seconds or so, so the gun should be fine.

And no I didn't put any hardener in the paint container, not even reducer... only paint, and it's sealed up tight.

Thanks nate... and if you could get back to me on the other questions I'd appreciate that too.

Reply to
JK

Hi

Quick idea....

you can rent a compressor for a day pretty cheaply.....for something like 30 to

40 dollars a day....just look under rentals section in the phone book...

take care

Bll

Reply to
BllFs6

Another good way to squirt a car is to rent a nitrogen tank . Clean ,dry and constant pressure .Rental compressors seldom have the water and oil separators you need to do a good job . been there done that

Peace flacoman

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Reply to
flacoman90999

I priced compressors and the cheapest I could find for a good one was $80/day. Where would I check for a nitrogen tank and how much is that?

Thanks.

Reply to
JK

Any local welding supply house can rent what you need without much grief . Nitrogen is the cheapest and works well

HTH flacoman

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Reply to
flacoman90999

How many coats would you expect a guy could do with one cylinder?

Reply to
JK

Well, we've shot whole cars with prime and paint without too much grief, so the last coat should leave you plenty

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Reply to
flacoman90999

Reply to
bobby

Well, here's what I found. I can get a cylinder of argon for a $100 deposit and $23 for the gas (nitrogen was $29.) That's 305 cubic feet of argon gas. So what does that come out to? My gun uses 4.9 cfm @

35 psi, so I should get roughly an hour of spray out of that cylinder, right? If so, that would be sweet. That would give me plenty of time to do a couple more coats on the sides of the car. Am I thinking this through correctly?
Reply to
JK

Reply to
bobby

Don't forget , that 305 c/f is at 3000 psi , so you would get about 90 hours ....you could do all you want .The problems with scuba tanks is they have moisture in the air , which condenses :-( Make sure you protect yourself from the(paint)fumes peace flacoman flacoman

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Reply to
flacoman90999

How do you get 90 hours out of that?

Reply to
JK

Dunno, one thing I know for sure- the gas cylinder you buy for $23 does not have a volume of 305 cubic feet. That would be a sphere more than

8 feet in diameter. Obviously the 305 cubic feet is referring to the volume of gas at some lower pressure, perhaps at atmospheric pressure?
Reply to
Mark Olson

Yes, it does. That's how much gas is compressed into the cylinders.

Obviously...

Reply to
JK

Reply to
bobby

Moisture shouldn't be an issue with the argon either. It's almost as important to have clean and dry argon in MIG welding as it is to have clean, dry air in painting. I'll still be using a water/oil trap anyway.

Reply to
JK

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