So, did you throw off the "golden handcuffs" of the Snap On VCI yet? (""=your words)
I'm debating on a trade in Solus deal, but not until they impliment better Toyota functionality. I mean like having sensor data for a certain year range but not having it for the same powertrain system in a different year range; lacking simple data, not being able to customize a data list during active testing, etc. My MTG2500 graphing doesn't even work on the manufacturer side, and the Generic OBD graphing resolution doesn't impress in the least. I wonder how much has to do with the limited storage capacity of the VCI verses the CF card + onboard storage of the Solus? Sometimes I think a Genisys would be better, but then I slap myself.
Have you used the Mastertech for Toyota as a comparison to AE?
heh-heh-heh... In the span of a week and a half, that's two people who've brought that up. The other was John Thornton.
Another shop owner in town here had a Solus for a loaner for 3 months while his Modis was in for repair. He hated that thing so bad I loaned him my other brick to use.
Yup.
Been there.
Done that.
Just like how my Scan Grafix doesn't always work on some OBD2 stuff.
May have more to do with generic data rates than it does the tool.
And when the Solus is maxed out in a couple of years, then what?
I was close to buying a Genisys a couple of years ago, then I started reading all the horror stories and rethought that idea.
Haven't touched a Mastertech in ten years, we had one in the Wis. IM-240 program for diagnosing ping-pong cars, that and a CAS SuperGuide . The Mastertech was great, the SuperGuide was so bad, I brought my Counsellor 2 in from home.
If you wind up getting the AE, I'd be interested in hearing how it compares to the Mastertech w/Toyota software.
Cars that were being ping-ponged back and forth between the repair shop and the test station.
After the second failure, the customer could bring the car into one of two diagnostic facilities in Milwaukee and have free diagnostics performed to assist in getting the car to pass.
We also did technician outreach, answered a diagnostic hotline and did damage investigations.
Pulling rabbits out of a hat 80 hours a week... ;-)
That said, I went out just because of _your_ problem, and checked my own sensors. They look fine afaik. 2 different scanners also. Davis Drive Right and Actron 9145 each read B1S1 B1S2 B2S1 B2S2
Then I compared them over a number of trips, and all looks OK to me. The point is, I would rather have a computer tell me what is wrong, than fudge around with a hand held voltmeter under the hood with the engine running...trying to backprobe these things, especially considering where they are located is hot Hot HOT.
I also monitor my STFT's and LTFT's, and see nothing out of the ordinary on my -own- vehicle. Well, it runs fine but I only have a little over 25,000 miles on it, so this is what one would expect.
Fortunately? my engine has been around so long, in the chassis of most Tauri (plural of Taurus?) that it is pretty well known where its strength and weaknesses are. It's pretty well documented on the web.
It is my first and only computer-controlled vehicle, so I have no reference points for anything else, except carbureted junkers that never cost me more than $200 cash up front ( repairing them cost more ).
Those *beaters* as I call them lasted me many years, but they nickled and dimed me to death in parts and time to repair. Living without a car here is out of the question. It is a necessity...not a convenience. Thusly my newfound interest in the Topic, and my presence on the n/g, sucking up information.
Because I have scanners, I can theoretically save myself grief. The idea is to Pass Inspection. If I don't, I can't re-register my car until I can. I'm given X number of days to repair, and return for reinspection. If I am going to drive on invalid plates, I'm asking for jail and a stiff fine.
Regardless of anything else, who else thinks that IAT temp looks high for closed throttle idle?..When I see that I start thinking the EGR is hung open.
The crank pickup is one of those 'fast start' systems that GM used?..
6x and 18x triggers?.. If I'm remembering correctly, I remember reading that failure of part of that system would cause a no-start, but wouldn't cause a stall.. but, admittedly, this is stuff from *years* ago for me.
I don't know what to think about techs anymore (and this is from someone who was one for >10 years).. talked to one tech that couldn't troubleshoot a basic Ford DPFE system, and when he asked me about a high idle problem on an 88 5.0 FI and told me everything he's done so far, and I asked what the KOEO and KOER tests showed, responded that he hadn't done those tests.
But, I've also seen someone else crimp a brake hose with a pair of vise grips and break the hose.. dealer part; will be in Monday.
There are some good techs out there.. and, like with so many other occupations, there are some real losers out there.
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